Adjusting the KAMAZ-5320 clutch: valves, basket feet, ignition installation, repair

Replacing a KAMAZ clutch is a specific technology that requires experience and knowledge. Our service provides professional replacement and on-site repair of the unit. We guarantee reasonable prices, prompt arrival on site, and qualified solutions to technical problems.

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Job	Price
Replacing the Kamaz clutch on-site: removing and installing the gearbox	25,000 rub.
Travel outside the Moscow Ring Road	50 rub/km

How to repair a KAMAZ clutch

Repair of the KAMAZ clutch cylinder should be carried out after the problem with the tightness of the PGU and its pumping has been eliminated.
After bleeding is completed, press the clutch pedal, turn the air bleed valve all the way, and then remove the hose from the head of this valve and put on the cap for protection.

The fluid level inside the master cylinder is then set to the correct level. Repair of the KAMAZ clutch master cylinder and replacement of the KAMAZ clutch master cylinder imply this operation as mandatory. The brake fluid released from the hydraulic system during bleeding can be used again after it has settled and further filtered. The quality of pumping is determined by the stroke of the pneumatic hydraulic booster pusher.

It is necessary to check the presence of condensation inside the power cylinder of the pneumatic hydraulic booster. To drain the condensate, you need to unscrew the plug of the aluminum housing of the pneumatic power steering. To drain completely, lightly press the clutch (pedal).

At least once every 3 years, the hydraulic system in the clutch drive should be flushed with methanol or brake fluid, the master cylinder and pneumatic hydraulic booster should be disassembled, and fresh brake fluid should be added.

The proven quality of cars will not let the driver down if the mechanisms are regularly serviced

Attention is paid to adjusting the KamAZ clutch, since the device performs many functions. The mechanism separates the gearbox from the motor when changing gears, then connects them to minimize gear tooth impact

Using the module, the load on the transmission is reduced when the speed changes.

How to remove the clutch basket

Repairing the KAMAZ clutch basket with your own hands involves removing it. It includes the flywheel, pressure plate and protective cover. The driven part is made of steel discs that dampen vibrations.

Repairing the KAMAZ clutch basket requires its preliminary removal. To do this, you need to screw 4 bolts into the pressure disk and press the disk into the casing. Using pliers, you should carefully press out the antennae on the lock washers, then remove the elements with which the casing is attached to the flywheel, then remove the discs and clutch casing in turn.

Before repairing the KAMAZ clutch and removing the clutch basket, it is necessary to use a core to mark the location of the basket and the flywheel.

Adjusting the clutch pedal free play

According to the official regulations, the stroke for moving the pedal should be about 6-12 mm, and the measurement itself should be done from the central component of the plate. The pedal must be released until the main cylinder starts working after pressing it. Adjustment is carried out using an eccentric pin; when making adjustments, the pedal must be pressed against the upper stop. The castle nut is tightened as much as possible and the full stroke is replaced, which should be 185-195 mm.

Video about adjusting the clutch pedal

The “EIGHT ATMOSPHERES” channel in its video showed in detail how to increase the clutch pedal pressure on a KamAZ Euro.

Which side should I put the clutch disc on MTZ 80?

The disk is inserted into the flywheel with the side on which the hub rivets are flat and have a slot or a chisel, with the convex caps outward (they will touch the flywheel bolts if placed incorrectly).

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Preparing for adjustment

Before properly adjusting and bleeding the clutch on Kamaz 740, 5511 or other trucks, you must perform the following steps:

Check the tightness of the drive device. To do this, you need to depress the clutch pedal several times. The presence of a serious air leak can be determined by hearing, and a weaker one can be determined by using a soap solution. If brake fluid is leaving the system, this can be determined visually. If problems are detected in the tightness, the components are tightened or the pipes are replaced.
Carry out diagnostics of the fluid level in the expansion tank of the drive device. The volume of consumables should be about 15-20 mm below the edge of the tank neck. If required, the fluid level is replenished. It is not recommended to mix supplies from different manufacturers when performing this task.
Check the operation of the pedal release springs, as well as the system release fork pulley lever.
Tighten the bolts that secure the pneumatic reinforcement device CC. This procedure is performed using a torque wrench. The tightening torque should be about 90-100 Nm.
Drain condensate, if any, from the pneumatic hydraulic booster.

Adjusting the clutch operation

To complete the task, you will need a special homemade product in the form of a piece of wire, one side of which should be 2 mm and bent at an angle of 90 degrees. The thickness of the rod is at least 3-4 mm. This size is optimal for controlling the gap between the tab outline and the disc release component. Adjustment is made using the nut of the pneumatic booster device. The legs must be brought to the ring through a hole located in the upper part of the crankcase.

You need to adjust the clutch like this:

The locking screws are unscrewed with a wrench.
The stoppers and plates are dismantled.
Each nut is loosened and released 5 turns; for convenience, it is recommended to use a ratchet. If the penny protrudes beyond the surface of the ring, it must be recessed, checking in advance for the presence of ferodo at the bottom.
When performing this task, you can also change the spring elements if they are worn out. The paws should be positioned so that they are in equal contact with the ring.
The disk area runout is checked. If necessary, the bearing device is lubricated. The adjustment gap should be about 29-30 mm.

REPAIR OF THE CLUTCH CONTROL MASTER CYLINDER ON KAMAZ VEHICLES

REPAIR OF THE CLUTCH CONTROL MAIN CYLINDER ON KAMAZ VEHICLES
REPAIR OF THE CLUTCH CONTROL MAIN CYLINDER

REPAIR OF CLUTCH CONTROL MASTER CYLINDER

Rice. 135. Control cylinder loading graph

Tools and accessories

Tools and accessories: bench, vice, spanner 38X36, washing bath, hair brush, hose for blowing parts with air, container for Neva brake fluid

Contents of the operation (transition)

Disassembling the master cylinder

1. Remove the protective cover 2 (Fig. 136) from the cylinder body 3 along with the pusher 1

2. Install the main cylinder in a vice, clamping the housing 3 with jaws. Unscrew the plug 8, remove the gasket 7, spring 6, use the piston pusher 1 to push the piston 4 with the cuff 5 out of the housing 3

Washing bath. hair brush, air hose

3. Rinse and blow off all parts with compressed air.

Note. Wash the parts in Neva brake fluid.

Technical conditions for defect detection and repair of parts of the main cylinder. Not allowed:

— diameter A (Fig. 137) of the Master cylinder body is more than 28.06 mm;

— scoring on the working surface A of the main cylinder body;

Vise, socket wrench 38 mm

Rice. 136. Clutch master cylinder:

— diameter B (Fig. 138) of the piston is less than 27.92 mm;

Socket wrench 38 mm, liquid container

- wear and swelling of the cuff.

4. Install piston 4, cuff 5, spring 6 into housing 3 (see Fig. 136) of the main cylinder and screw in plug 8 with gasket 7.

Note. Before installation, lubricate the piston and cuff with Neva brake fluid. The piston in the housing should move easily, without jamming.

Rice. 137. Master cylinder body

5. Install the protective cover 2 on the pusher 1 with the sealing ring, insert the pusher into the body 3 and connect the cover to the body

Ask for spare parts for KAMAZ MAZ URAL ZIL at MIG-Avto LLC under the ZTD (ZChTD) brand or in retail stores selling spare parts in the cities of Moscow, St. Petersburg, Novosibirsk, Yekaterinburg, Nizhny, Novgorod, Kazan, Samara, Omsk , Chelyabinsk, Rostov-on-Don, Ufa, Volgograd, Krasnoyarsk, Perm, Voronezh, Saratov, Krasnodar, Togliatti, Tyumen, Izhevsk, Barnaul, Ulyanovsk, Irkutsk, Vladivostok, Yaroslavl, Khabarovsk, Makhachkala, Orenburg, Novokuznetsk, Tomsk, Kemerovo , Ryazan, Astrakhan, Penza, Naberezhnye, Chelny, Lipetsk, Tula, Kirov, Cheboksary, Kaliningrad, Kursk, Ulan-Ude, Stavropol, Magnitogorsk, Bryansk, Ivanovo, Tver, Belgorod, Sochi, Nizhny, Tagil, Arkhangelsk, Vladimir, Kaluga , Chita, Smolensk, Volzhsky, Kurgan, Surgut, Orel, Cherepovets, Vladikavkaz, Vologda, Murmansk, Saransk, Yakutsk, Tambov, Grozny, Sterlitamak, Kostroma, Petrozavodsk, Nizhnevartovsk, Komsomolsk-on-Amur, Yoshkar-Ola, Taganrog, Novorossiysk , Bratsk, Syktyvkar, Nalchik, Dzerzhinsk, Mines, Orsk, Nizhnekamsk, Balashikha, Angarsk, Khimki, Stary, Oskol, Veliky, Novgorod, Blagoveshchensk, Engels, Podolsk, Pskov, Biysk, Prokopyevsk, Rybinsk, Balakovo, Armavir, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk , Severodvinsk, Korolev, Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, Lyubertsy, Mytishchi, Norilsk, Syzran, Novocherkassk, Zlatoust, Kamensk-Uralsky, Volgodonsk, Abakan, Nakhodka, Ussuriysk, Elektrostal, Salavat, Berezniki, Miass, Almetyevsk, Rubtsovsk, Pyatigorsk, Kolomna, Maykop , Kovrov, Zheleznodorozhny, Kopeysk, Odintsovo, Khasavyurt, Kislovodsk, Novomoskovsk, Krasnogorsk, Cherkessk, Serpukhov, Nefteyugansk, Pervouralsk, Novocheboksarsk, Neftekamsk, Orekhovo-Zuevo, Dimitrovgrad, Derbent, Nevinnomyssk, Kamyshin, Novy, Urengoy, Bataysk, Kyzyl, Shchelkovo , Murom, Oktyabrsky, Novoshakhtinsk, Seversk, Sergiev, Posad, Noyabrsk, Achinsk, Yelets, Novokuibyshevsk, Zhukovsky, Obninsk, Arzamas, Pushkino, Domodedovo, Elista, Kaspiysk, Nazran, Artyom, Essentuki, Noginsk, Ramenskoye, Berdsk, Sarapul, Mezhdurechensk , Leninsk-Kuznetsky, Ukhta, Serov, Votkinsk, Tobolsk, Zelenodolsk, Velikiye, Luki, Michurinsk, Zheleznogorsk, Solikamsk, Kiselevsk, Gatchina, Glazov, Novotroitsk, Magadan, Dolgoprudny, Sarov, Kamensk-Shakhtinsky, Voskresensk, Kansk, Reutov, Khanty -Mansiysk, Bugulma, Gubkin, Kuznetsk, Kineshma, Yeysk, Zheleznogorsk, Ust-Ilimsk, Buzuluk, Novouralsk, Azov, Tchaikovsky, Usolye-Sibirskoye, Yurga, Ozersk, Vyborg, Balashov, Kropotkin, Klin, Lobnya, Bor, Troitsk, Shadrinsk , Kirovo-Chepetsk, Mineralnye, Waters, Mikhailovsk, Birobidzhan, Anzhero-Sudzhensk, Belovo, Dubna, Chernogorsk, Chapaevsk, Elabuga, Egoryevsk, Georgievsk, Novoaltaisk, Minusinsk, Belogorsk, Beloretsk, Asbest, Tuymazy, Kstovo, Sosnovy, Bor, Kungur , Stupino, Ishimbay, Gukovo, Chekhov, Volsk, Zelenogorsk, Pavlovsky, Posad, Ishim, Borisoglebsk, Slavyansk-on-Kuban, Lysva, Vorkuta, Donskoy, Budyonnovsk, Dmitrov, Leninogorsk, Zarechny, Anapa, Ivanteevka, Polevskoy, Naro-Fominsk , Buynaksk, Tuapse, Sibay, Verkhnyaya, Pyshma, Rossosh, Kumertau, Vsevolozhsk, Labinsk, Revda, Klintsy, Gelendzhik, Rzhev, Chistopol, Alexandrov, Gorno-Altaisk, Lesosibirsk, Tikhoretsk, Meleuz, Kotlas, Salsk, Neryungri, Kogalym, Aleksin , Belebey, Pavlovo, Krasnoturinsk, Apatity, Mikhailovka, Shuya, Gus-Khrustalny, Tikhvin, Shchekino, Iskitim, Cool, Krymsk, Vidnoye, Fryazino, Svobodny, Klimovsk, Izberbash, Lytkarino, Nyagan, Zhigulevsk, Vyazma, Krasnokamensk, Liski, Arsenyev , Volzhsk, Vyksa, Berezovsky, Uzlovaya, Timashevsk, Krasnokamsk, Borovichi, Belorechensk, Roslavl, Kirishi, Solnechnogorsk, Urus-Martan, Nazarovo, Cheremkhovo, Balakhna, Vyshny, Volochyok.

Clutch debugging

The next stage of adjustment will be to adjust the free play parameters of the clutch, the value of which should be from 3.2 to 4 mm. The measurement is carried out by rotating the adjusting nut.

The sequence of actions in this case:

Loosen the fork mounting nut.
Unscrew the fastening pin, allow it to move freely and remove it.
Rotate the traction fork until the required clearance is obtained.
Tighten the nut and install the pin in place.
Install the locking pin.
Check the setting. When the pedal is fully depressed, the clutch stroke should be at least 25 mm.

Diagnostics, adjustment and pumping of KamAZ clutch

Adjustment of the KamAZ clutch may be required during the operation of the vehicle, since this unit is subject to serious loads. If the clutch “leads” or “slips”, if there is extraneous noise and crackling noise when shifting gears, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics and the necessary adjustments.

Diagnostics and adjustment of the KamAZ clutch includes the following actions:

Visual inspection of the clutch drive.
Adjusting the free play of the clutch pedal.
Adjusting the free play of the release bearing clutch.
Adjusting the full stroke of the clutch pneumatic hydraulic booster pusher.
Bleeding the clutch hydraulic system.

Inspection and maintenance of the clutch drive

The clutch drive of Kamaz-5320 vehicles includes a clutch pedal with a release spring, a master cylinder, a working cylinder assembled with a pneumatic booster, pipelines and hoses for supplying working fluid from the master cylinder to the pneumatic booster, a compensation tank connected by a hose to the clutch master cylinder. Before any clutch adjustment, the drive should be inspected:

Check the clutch drive for leaks. To do this, press the clutch pedal two or three times. A strong air leak is detected by ear, and a weak one is detected with a soap solution. Brake fluid leaks are checked visually. If a drive leak is detected, it is eliminated by tightening or replacing leaking elements.
Check the fluid level in the clutch compensation reservoir. The fluid should be 15...20 mm below the edge of the reservoir neck. If necessary, add liquid to the required level. Mixing liquids of different brands is not allowed.
Check the action of the release springs of the clutch pedal and the clutch fork shaft lever
Tighten the bolts securing the pneumatic clutch drive booster. Tightening torque 90… 100 N*m (9…10 kgf*m)
Drain condensate from the pneumatic hydraulic booster

If the clutch drive is mechanically in good condition, the necessary adjustments are made according to the set values.

Adjusting the clutch pedal free play

The free play of the clutch pedal, corresponding to the start of operation of the master cylinder, should be 6...15 mm. Measure the free play of the pedal with a graduated ruler, which is pressed against the floor of the cabin at the level of the middle of the pedal platform. If the free play exceeds the specified limits, adjust the clearance between the piston and the master cylinder piston pusher.

To adjust the clutch pedal, set it to its highest position and, having previously uncottered and loosened the castle nut, turn the eccentric pin that connects the upper eye of the pusher to the lever so that the movement of the pedal from the upper stop until the pusher touches the piston is 6...15 mm, after which tighten and cotter the castle nut.

The full travel of the clutch pedal should be 185... 195 mm. It is adjusted by changing the position of the movable stop 4 located in the upper part of the pedal (see Fig. 2.23, i), after which the stop is fixed with a lock nut.

Adjusting the free play of the release bearing clutch

The free play of the clutch release clutch should be 3.2...4.0 mm, which corresponds to the free play of the clutch fork shaft lever of 4...5 mm.

The free play of the clutch release clutch is checked by manually moving the lever with the spring previously disconnected.

Adjust the free play of the fork shaft lever with the spherical nut of the pneumatic booster pusher, and then connect the spring to the lever.

Important Characteristics of the Soviet dump truck ZIL-MMZ-555 and its modifications

Adjusting the full stroke of the PSU pusher

The full stroke of the pneumatic booster pusher must be at least 25 mm. With a smaller stroke value, complete disengagement of the clutch is not ensured.

Maintenance

In addition to settings, the clutch of KamAZ vehicles requires regular maintenance, since this significantly increases the service life and reliability of the mechanism on all KamAZ brands.

Using model 53215 as an example, maintenance consists of the following main points:

Checking the tightness of the amplifier mounting bolts in the clutch drive circuit.
Monitoring the tightness of hydraulic lines. There should be no oil stains on them.
General check of serviceability of pedal assembly parts. All elements must be in good condition and not have large gaps in the connections.
Checking the presence of lubricant in the clutch bearing and fork connection bushing. To supply oil in the clutch housing there are three points equipped with grease nipples. Oil is injected into them using a syringe.
Draining condensate from the CCGT housing.
Checking the fluid level in the amplifier reservoir.

When is clutch replacement required?

If all the work performed does not lead to the restoration of the clutch mechanism, then this becomes one of the signals to replace it.

Other signs of critical wear of structural elements are:

sudden turning on of the disks, resulting in a hard jerk of the car;
difficulty engaging all gears, accompanied by a characteristic crash;
sluggish acceleration of the car, while the engine speed clearly does not correspond to the selected gear and speed;
smell of burning pads when driving.

How to know when it's time to change your clutch

There are cases when adjusting the clutch cannot correct the problem. Perhaps you missed a moment when you could get by with little effort, or maybe the device failed for some objective reason. So, it’s time to change the MAZ clutch if you notice the following signs:

The device turns on abruptly, the car jerks and abruptly pulls away.
Noise in the mechanism, perhaps a loud cracking sound when the gear is engaged.
The car starts moving late, even if you release the clutch on time.
A characteristic burning smell in the cabin (this is a clear sign that the clutch has burned out).

There is no need to delay replacing the clutch. As a result, everything may end in damage to the gearbox or in the fact that one fine day the car simply will not be able to move.

However, if you are confident in your abilities or the KamAZ clutch basket is familiar to you, you can get down to business.

What you need

Before starting work, you need to stock up on a certain set of tools. So, you will need:

A set of wrenches or socket heads.
Emphasis.
A ruler to later measure the free play of the pedal.
Pliers and pliers.

Replacing the Kamaz clutch

If you have all this, it's time to get to work. The main thing is to strictly follow the entire sequence of actions:

First of all, remove the gearbox. KamAZ has it very heavy, so you will need the help of several people.
Next, next is the clutch basket, remove it too.
Then remove the driven, middle and driving clutch discs.
Then install new parts of the device in their place. Start by installing the first driven disk and then install the parts in the reverse order of disassembly.
Make sure once again that the device is assembled correctly and that’s it – you can put the gearbox in place.

If the clutch is single-plate, the process is similar and even easier. It may seem that everything is quite simple, but this is far from the case. Replacing and adjusting the MAZ clutch will require a lot of physical effort and time. Perhaps it makes sense to trust specialists who will do everything correctly and without mistakes. By observing the process, you will be able to remember the entire sequence in practice, and next time you will be able to adjust or replace the device yourself.

How to use the clutch to make it work as much as possible

There are several simple rules to extend the life of the KamAZ clutch. Unfortunately, not all drivers use them and often the device has to be changed much earlier than provided by the manufacturer.

Do not keep the mechanism depressed for too long. Using clutch slipping at traffic lights and to reduce speed is very harmful to the device.
And, most importantly, check the free play of the pedal as often as possible and lubricate all accessible components of the clutch mechanism. This is probably the most important guarantee that you won’t have to think about replacing the mechanism for at least several years.

Adjusting the legs of the KAMAZ clutch basket

The case is carried out in several steps:

The checkpoint is dismantled. Use wrenches to unscrew the fastening bolts.
Raise the box: it is better to do this with a cargo winch.
Check the condition of the coupling, tension spring element, and release bearing.
Unscrew the screws connecting the pressure plate and flywheel. To dismantle the pressure element, the driven disk must be supported.
Carry out troubleshooting of all parts of the system (preferably).
Check the condition of the release bearing. A working mechanism rotates easily, without unnecessary sounds.
Conduct a visual inspection of the working surface of the pressure plate feet. After installing the new parts, the KS feet are adjusted. In this case, you will need a flat slab.

The location of the paws is oriented towards the working position of the pressure plate surface

Important: the operation does not require removing the joint from the additional flywheel. You will need wrenches for the adjusting screws.

The KS feet must be positioned so that the distance from the working plane of the pressure plate to the upper edges of the spherical protrusions on the inner surface of the feet is no more than 41 millimeters. But 40 mm is better.

To check the installation of the paws, you will need a special plate. The spherical protrusions must touch the control plate (it is installed on the hub). After completing the adjustment, all screws securing the support plates are tightened until they stop. Assembly proceeds in reverse order.

Replacing the MAZ clutch - removing the gearbox

Failure of the element in question is possible due to failure of the clutch disc, basket and bearing (release). Sometimes discs are filled with oil. However, you can understand why the clutch slips, why the clutch is tight, only after disassembling the gearbox.

Therefore, we remove the gearbox and continue repairing the MAZ clutch. I recommend replacing several MAZ spare parts along the way, which, in principle, do not affect clutch failure.

The fact is that in most cases the elements have significant signs of wear, which will lead to breakdown over time. Moreover, if you are repairing a MAZ clutch, it means that the box has not been removed for at least a year.

Therefore, some consumables will actually have to be replaced. Replacing a MAZ clutch most often includes purchasing a new one:

Clutch disc.
Release bearing hose.
Release bearing.
Gearbox input shaft oil seal.
Bearing spring.
Gaskets for oil pump and shaft.

Only after purchasing new parts do I recommend repairing the MAZ clutch.

Replacement of dump truck clutch

First, we raise the body. Don't forget to lock it in this position.

So replacing the MAZ clutch will not harm you. In general, follow basic safety precautions. Then gradually drain the oil from the gearbox. We disconnect such elements as the body lift pump, cardan and tubes.

Repairing the MAZ clutch also requires removing the yoke with the rear support pad, the PGU and its bracket.

Let me emphasize - ALWAYS remove the bracket! Adjusting the MAZ clutch, most often, if the bracket is not removed, can lead to breakage of the release bearing fork and its spring.

After this, inspect the condition of the release bearing and gearbox basket. If you do not find any signs of wear on these elements, adjust the clutch further. Therefore, we remove the basket from the car flywheel. This will give us access to the clutch disc. Let's examine the detail. If we find traces of damage, we repair it or replace the part with a new one. If the disc is in good condition, then replacing the clutch continues.

Adjusting the MAZ clutch may seem like a simple task, but... there are a lot of nuances here. For example, the support bearing of the input shaft. Let me remind you that it is located in the flywheel. With long-term operation of a MAZ dump truck, this element wears out very much. It all starts with the oil seal. As soon as you replace it, the spare part may still leak oil. Therefore, if you need to replace the clutch, change the bearing too - issues with the oil seal will disappear for a couple of years, just as long as you replace the element in time.

Debugging the full stroke of the amplifier pusher

Before you adjust the free play of the pusher of a single-disc or multi-disc clutch with your own hands, you need to check its length. To do this, you need to completely disengage the clutch and perform a check. If the free play is 2.5 cm or less, the system will not be able to turn off completely; this can be determined by the difficulties when shifting gears. If necessary, working fluid is added to the cylinder of the pusher device.

Incorrect operation of the amplification device may be due to the presence of air in the pipes. To fix the problem, you need to bleed the drive.

Example of pumping on car 55102:

The required amount of liquid is added to the reservoir.
The protective cap is removed from the bypass valve. Then a rubber tube is put on it, the second end of which is lowered into a reservoir with liquid.
The clutch pedal is pressed all the way.
The valve opens one turn. The clutch pedal must be depressed several times until air stops coming out of the end of the pipe installed in a container with liquid. This can be determined by the formation of bubbles. The main thing when performing this task is to not allow the consumable level to drop to less than 4 cm from the top of the reservoir.
The valve closes and the pipe is removed. The protective cap is installed in place.
The required amount of liquid is added to the container.
The pusher stroke is checked.

Adjusting the device

When driving a vehicle, a number of cases may arise that indicate the presence of malfunctions:

system slipping at high speeds;
discrepancy between the free play of the pedal and the stated standards;
presence of mechanical noise during gear shifting.

When the driver notices one of the above problems, it is necessary to conduct a technical inspection of the clutch basket with possible further adjustment. If you ignore the problem, the problems may spread to the gearbox or other components of the automobile transmission.

Design features of the clutch

Most KamAZ trucks use a double-disc clutch system (CC) with a radial position of power springs. To operate the mechanism, a special hydraulic drive equipped with a pneumatic amplifier is used. This scheme allows for a reduction in the effort required to depress the clutch pedal.

Clutch system diagram for KamAZ 4310 and 53215

Main elements of the device:

Flywheel.
Middle drive shaft.
Driven pulley.
Pressure disk.
Crater device.
Protective cover.
Support fork.
Gear shift lever.
Deactivation clutch with bearing element.
System shutdown plug.
Thrust ring for shutdown levers.
Release spring.
A – play between the clutch bearing and the release lever ring.

Connection diagram for the clutch drive KamAZ 43118 and 65115

Main components of the circuit:

Clutch pedal.
Main cylinder.
Cylindrical element of a pneumatic booster device.
Pneumatic booster follower mechanism for a device with two discs.
Air duct.
Working hydraulic cylinder.
Shut-off clutch equipped with a bearing element.
Shift lever.
Stock.
Pipelines and pipes of the hydraulic drive.

Driven disks in SS KamAZ 55111 or 43114 are manufactured using heat-resistant friction linings, which prevent rapid wear of structural elements. The device also includes a vibration damper that occurs when the engine cranks. The pedal of the drive unit is located on special bushings and usually functions without the need for regular lubrication. More modern versions of KamAZ 55102 and 6520 use Euro class single-plate clutches.

Clutches in KamAZ systems may differ from each other in the amount of transmitted torque.

The main feature of the improved versions of the SS is the presence of a built-in indicator that determines the wear of the friction linings. The gap is measured by the distance between the body of the amplification device, as well as the washer located on the rod. In case of serious wear, this figure may be about 2.3-2.5 cm. In some SS for KamAZ 43114 and 4308 with a PGU, it may not be possible to adjust the position of the rod.

Single-disc CC for truck

Pictured is a multi-disc clutch system.

Adjusting the KAMAZ clutch

The manufacturer recommends maintaining a free play value in the range from 3.2 to 4 millimeters. To measure, you will need to move the fork shaft lever by hand. It must move in the direction from the spherical nut of the pusher. It is located on the pneumatic or hydraulic clutch drive amplifier. Adjusting the KAMAZ clutch clearance will require removing the spring: the lever should move no more than five millimeters. If the free play is less than three millimeters, then it is adjusted using a spherical nut. The idle speed of the clutch must be from 3.2 to 4 millimeters.

Important Repair manual for the GAZ-51 truck and its technical characteristics

Removing the clutch discs

Replacing a KAMAZ clutch disc requires its removal. KAMAZ has a friction 2-disc clutch, pressure springs and a device for automatically bringing the middle drive disk to the middle position.

When removing the flywheel, it is necessary to take into account the specifics of its design: the drive middle disk is installed in the grooves of the flywheel, which are located around the circumference of this disk. To ensure heat dissipation in the clutch and its ventilation, the disc in its “body” has holes that separate the ribs (spikes). These cleats have a lever that adjusts the position of the driving middle disc. Both the pressure and middle drive disks are located on spikes in grooves located in the flywheel.

The other side of the disk has protrusions that are designed for pressure springs. You should remember the order in which they are placed. The driven disk includes a hub, a spring, a rivet, linings, and a torque vibration damper. The hub with the disk does not have a rigid connection, there are only 8 springs. The space between the driven and driving disks is where the release springs are located, as well as the intermediate disk adjusting bolt.

How to install the ignition

To install and connect the ignition switch you will need:

injection pump;
metal rod with a diameter of 1 cm and a length of 30 to 40 cm;
17mm wrench.

Set the mark on the high-pressure fuel pump so that the fuel injection system operates 0.4 cm earlier before the piston mechanism reaches the top dead center position. To do this, you need to rotate the engine in the direction of travel until the mark aligns with the arrow mark.
Using special equipment, fix the piston mechanism as soon as it reaches the top dead center position. To do this, you can use the stopper, which is located on the flywheel housing.
Bring the mark located on the fuel injection advance clutch to the index arrow.
Lower the stopper and use the lever to turn the flywheel in different directions.
When the piston is installed at the compression point, loosen the high pressure fuel pump drive mounting screws and align the mark with the outermost part of the pointer.

Ignition connection:

connect the red wire to pin 50;
connect a black wire with black stripes to pin 15;
attach a pink wire to pin 30;
connect a brown wire to terminal 30/1;
connect a black wire to INT;
connect the battery terminals and check the functionality of the entire system.

How to adjust the KamAZ clutch

Maintenance is carried out regularly. Increasing the pedal stroke leads to incomplete disconnection of the flywheel and gearbox. This device causes the gears to come into contact, and the load on the teeth of the gears increases. If the accelerator stroke is insufficient, the drive disk does not engage, rotation is not fully transferred, and the machine stops.

Adjusting the clutch on a KamAZ allows you to eliminate faults that are diagnosed based on the following symptoms:

at the beginning of departure - jerks;
the friction pedal sticks;
the accelerator is slow;
if you check the drive fluid level, a leak is detected;
extraneous sounds are heard.

The need to adjust the clutch on a KamAZ is checked by measuring the distance from the bottom of the pedal to the floor surface of the driver's seat - the indicator should be 16 cm.

Without removing the box

Adjustment of the clutch operation is carried out by removing the gearbox. But if adjustment is required under road conditions, then the work is performed without removing the structure.

You will need a homemade device in the form of a piece of wire, one side of which is 2 cm long and bent at an angle of 90˚. The thickness of the rod is at least 3-4 mm; this size is convenient for controlling the clearance between the disc release element and the contour of the legs.

The adjustment is made using the pneumatic booster nut. The legs are connected to the ring through a hole at the top of the crankcase. Elements are placed as equally as possible to the area.

The procedure is as follows:

Unscrew the locking bolts.
Remove stoppers and plates.
The nuts are all loosened equally by 5 turns; ratchets are used for convenience.
If a nickel protrudes beyond the surface of the ring, then it is recessed, first checking for the presence of ferodo underneath.
The springs can be replaced at the same time.
The paws are placed so that they touch the ring equally. Then the runout of the disc area is analyzed.
The front bearing is lubricated. Select an adjustment gap of 29-30 mm.

Setting up the mechanism without removing the gearbox is done in the case of a double-disc clutch; single-disc clutches are not adjusted this way.

How to adjust pedal free play

Check the movement of the coupling by moving the axial shaft lever away from the pusher nut. If the free distance measured at 90˚ is less than 3 mm, then to adjust it, rotate the pusher screw so that the distance of free movement of the coupling is 3.1-4 mm.

The stroke of the amplifier pusher is checked when the accelerator is pressed - the indicator should be more than 2.5 cm. A smaller value does not ensure effective activation. If the pusher stroke of the pneumatic hydraulic booster is less than recommended, then:

adjust the free play of the clutch pedal;
control the amount of liquid in the main cylinder container;
remove the atmosphere from the hydraulic device.

The pedal movement should correspond to the size of 6-15 mm, it is measured in the middle of the pedal. If it is exceeded, the clearance of the piston and pusher is set using an eccentric element connecting the hole at the top of the pusher and the accelerator.

How to adjust the cart

The basket's feet are adjusted on the removed disk or through a gap in the flywheel directly on the machine.

When the machine is in the pit, remove the box using a winch.
Inspect the release bearing, springs and collets.
Unscrew the fastening of the disk to the engine flywheel.
Remove the pressure mechanism while holding the drive disk.
Inspect the surface and make adjustments to the paws relative to the area of the disk.
Check the change in the position of the paws using a plate, taking into account that their round surfaces should touch the template located on the hub.
After adjusting the clutch basket, the hardware is tightened until it stops. Clutch assembly is done in reverse order.

Malfunctions and what to do

Repair of the KamAZ clutch can be delayed if the machine is regularly maintained.

Load, road surface, driving skills affect the intensity of destructive processes:

wear of the control drive;
erasing contacting areas;
change in the tightness of devices.

To identify malfunctions, before adjusting the clutch drive, the automobile clutch is diagnosed:

Inspect the drive for leaks, determine the degree of destruction of the pedal springs and fork lever.
Bring the distance of free movement of the cylinder pusher and the fork axle lever to the recommended parameters.
Lubricate the balls of the release collet and the clutch fork shaft.
Determine the liquid level in the main cylinder tank and adjust the amount to normal.
Tighten the bolts of the pneumatic booster device.
Change the fluid in the hydraulic drive circuit once a year.

Clutch malfunctions are eliminated as the linings of the drive discs wear out.

If it slips

If the mechanism does not turn on completely, the car accelerates slowly or loses power when climbing the highway, or a burnt rubber smell is heard, then there is an explanation for the problems:

there is no clearance between the bearing pressing on the basket petals and the stop ring;
oil has leaked between interacting surfaces;
friction gaskets have become unusable;
the clamping springs have lost their shock-absorbing qualities or are broken.

If sometimes it disappears

The clutch does not engage fully, gears shift with a grinding noise, the lever gives in with effort - there are reasons for this state of the mechanism:

the clearance between the release bearing and the stop ring has increased;
the drive discs are warped or the gaskets have become unusable;
Air has entered the hydraulics, or there are leaks in the system.
the free play of the accelerator has become larger;
The clutch pedal is stuck on the shaft.

If the clutch is lost, then the amount of free movement of the pedal is adjusted, and the damaged disk is replaced with a working element. Worn friction insulation is removed and high-quality gaskets are installed. Parts with nicks and roughness are removed, processed by grinding and cleaned. All rubbing parts are oiled or treated with graphite, applied in a thin layer.

Pressing the release bearing on the levers at different times is removed by adjustment. Worn balls are replaced with new bearings. Pressure springs or discs are repaired or replaced depending on the condition. Disassembly of the clutch is carried out with special tools.

If it doesn't work at all

If KamAZ starts moving late after releasing the accelerator or does not move, then the clutch mechanism is not working.

A malfunction when there is no squeeze appears due to:

fluid has frozen in the hydraulics;
the piston system is jammed;
There are notches on the surface of the drive disk and in its nodes.
cuff seals have lost their tightness and have crumbled due to the use of untested lubricants and other care components.

To correct the deficiencies, the hydraulic system is flushed, and if the clutch does not disengage, then new cuffs are installed and high-quality brake fluid is filled in.

The pedal also fails if the return spring comes off. If it is not possible to replace it on the road, then they try to temporarily connect it in order to get to the service station.

Sometimes a rusted accelerator pin predisposes it to sticking, or the connection between the cable and the pedal is broken. The axle is disassembled and cleaned of deposits, and the slings or rods are secured to the lever and pinned.

How to replace a clutch

The petal clutch system of KamAZ vehicles changes in the event of disc slippage due to relaxation of the springs and wear-out of the friction pads of the drive circle. The coupling mechanism stops working when the hub rivets become loose or there is mechanical damage.

Clutch removal procedure:

Removing the gearbox is done without removing oil from the crankcase.
The pressure circle is screwed into the body until it stops using 4 screws. The whiskers of the locking washers are bent back.
The fastening bolts of the casing are unscrewed and the clutch hood complete with the pressure plate is removed, then the drive and middle circles are removed.

To reinstall after replacing the clutch, perform the following steps:

The leading and middle disks are installed in the flywheel system. The hubs are approached by protruding pediments. The holes on the hood match the cavities of the flywheel.
The box shaft is inserted into the splines of the drive circle, and the bolts are tightened in 2-3 steps.
Before installing the casing, determine the position of the stop ring. The included disk is mounted on the flywheel and technological hardware is released. The correct clearance is 53.7-54.3 mm; the ends exhibit a runout of less than 0.2 mm.
After unscrewing the technological hardware and removing the mandrel, the splines are installed on the gearbox.

Cylinder replacement

A rotating stand is used to allow the engine to rotate. When installing it, remove the oil filter, exhaust manifolds, fan, front brackets, and starter. The studs do not bend when elements are put on them. The included piston is placed in a vice and the compression ring is removed in combination with the oil removal element. To replace the clutch cylinder, remove the locking band of the pin and release the connecting rod with the piston.

Preparing for adjustment

Before properly adjusting and bleeding the clutch on Kamaz 740, 5511 or other trucks, you must perform the following steps:

Check the tightness of the drive device. To do this, you need to depress the clutch pedal several times. The presence of a serious air leak can be determined by hearing, and a weaker one can be determined by using a soap solution. If brake fluid is leaving the system, this can be determined visually. If problems are detected in the tightness, the components are tightened or the pipes are replaced.
Carry out diagnostics of the fluid level in the expansion tank of the drive device. The volume of consumables should be about 15-20 mm below the edge of the tank neck. If required, the fluid level is replenished. It is not recommended to mix supplies from different manufacturers when performing this task.
Check the operation of the pedal release springs, as well as the system release fork pulley lever.
Tighten the bolts that secure the pneumatic reinforcement device CC. This procedure is performed using a torque wrench. The tightening torque should be about 90-100 Nm.
Drain condensate, if any, from the pneumatic hydraulic booster.

Adjusting the clutch operation

You need to adjust the clutch like this:

The locking screws are unscrewed with a wrench.
The stoppers and plates are dismantled.
Each nut is loosened and released 5 turns; for convenience, it is recommended to use a ratchet. If the penny protrudes beyond the surface of the ring, it must be recessed, checking in advance for the presence of ferodo at the bottom.
When performing this task, you can also change the spring elements if they are worn out. The paws should be positioned so that they are in equal contact with the ring.
The disk area runout is checked. If necessary, the bearing device is lubricated. The adjustment gap should be about 29-30 mm.

Disassembling the cylinder

The cylinder can be disassembled from both sides.

The retaining ring is removed from inside the cylinder. The spring will push the cuff and piston out. This disassembly method is very inconvenient; it is difficult to get the locking ring. But if you don’t want to remove the cylinder completely to replace the cuff, you can use it. If the cylinder stops working due to wear. Of course you will have to suffer.
If the cylinder is removed. The easiest way is to unscrew the bottom plug. To which the tube is screwed. The cylinder is clamped in a vice and the plug is unscrewed. the spring and the cuff with the piston come out.

How is the adjustment carried out?

If problems occur with the clutch, you should try to make adjustments. When disc slippage occurs (sluggish acceleration, slight burning smell), it is necessary to set the correct clutch stroke.

If the disks are not fully spaced (difficult switching), you will have to perform more operations:

Set the pedal stroke.
Remove air from the drive lines.
Check the liquid level in the PSU.

When using the Euro unit, only the pedal free play needs to be adjusted. Lubrication and adjustment of other clutch parts during operation of the machine is not provided, except for monitoring the height of the fluid level in the drive reservoir.

Important: What is the best way to transport a wheeled or tracked tractor over a long distance?

By adjusting the clutch on KamAZ 5320 and other models we mean setting the correct gap between the release plate plane and the lever heads, as well as adjusting the free play of the pedal and drive clutch. The permissible free play for the clutch pedal must be in the range from 6 to 12 mm.

The gap is understood as the distance between the points of the central part of the pedal platform when the pedal is released and at the moment the master cylinder begins to turn on. The free play is regulated by rotating the eccentric pin located in the connection of the pedal lever with the upper eye of the amplifier rod. The adjustment is made with the pedal tension spring fully depressed, i.e. the pedal should rest against the upper rubber buffer, which serves as a travel limiter.

For example, on KamAZ 65115 the do-it-yourself adjustment process is as follows:

Unlock the pin castle nut pin.
By rotating the finger you need to achieve acceptable free play.
Tighten the nut and secure it with a cotter pin.
Check the pedal's full travel. If everything is adjusted correctly, it should be between 185 and 195 mm.

On single-disc MFZ units, the adjustment is similar, but the pedal travel should be from 140 to 150 mm.

Below, the process of adjusting the free wheel is demonstrated using the example of KamAZ 4310, the author of the video is Vladimir Krasikov.

Adjustment

The final stage of returning the system to working capacity is the adjustment of the mechanism. To adjust the unit, it is necessary to ensure the full stroke of the pusher, which is approximately twenty-five millimeters. By pressing the pedal all the way, the clutch performance is measured. A proper indicator indicates that the repair work has been carried out correctly. If the indicator is below the norm of 25, you should first check the presence of hydraulic fluid and the condition of the air systems.

The occurrence of any malfunction of the CCGT is the reason for urgent repairs. Different Kamaz models may have slightly different structure and functionality of the PSU system. The simplest mechanisms are those installed on the 5320, the most popular type of tractor-semi-trailer among the Russian truck industry.

Do-it-yourself KAMAZ clutch replacement

To replace the clutch on your own, you will need assistants to remove the gearbox. Work procedure:

Unscrew the fastening nuts, remove the cardan, pneumatic hydraulic booster, and release the starter from the mounting.
Remove the pipes for the reduction gear, as well as the gear lever.
Take a jack.
Place a jack under the engine sump and lift the engine.
Remove the rear cross member and the spacer rod.
Release the bracket from the fastening.
Secure the hoist and tighten it.
Remove the engine side mounts. Unscrew the gearbox fasteners to the engine.
Using a hoist, move the gearbox away from the engine until the input shaft comes out, then remove it.

Repair of clutch parts

Defects in clutch parts and their elimination.

The clutch may have the following defects: slipping and incomplete disengagement of the discs, wear of the linings and the discs themselves, warping of the pressure plate, risks and cracks on it, loose fastenings, loss of elasticity of the springs, wear of the pedal axle bushings, etc.

Ferodo disk burst

Repair of clutch parts consists of replacing faulty parts with new ones, straightening them and welding cracks. If the thickness of the pressure plate is less than the nominal value, in addition to thermal insulating washers, metal spacers can be installed under the springs.

When replacing worn friction linings, they are riveted to the disk so that the heads of the rivets are buried in the linings by at least 1-1.5 mm. The driven disk with new linings is checked for runout using the transmission drive shaft as a mandrel.

Output from intermediate

Discs that have circular marks and burrs are leveled on a surface grinder, sometimes with preliminary turning on a lathe. If there is significant warping or cracks, the discs are replaced with new ones. The worn surfaces of the switch levers are fused with steel using gas or electric welding, and then processed according to a template and hardened.

Work related to clutch replacement

It is recommended to replace the basket if the following shortcomings are found:

even after adjustment, the car jerks and starts abruptly;
extraneous sounds in the basket were and are still present;
the car “thinks” for a long time and does not immediately start moving, despite the fact that the clutch was depressed according to all the rules;
There is a characteristic burning smell in the cabin - this indicates that the clutch mechanism has simply burned out.

This activity begins with removing the gearbox. This is a very heavy unit that requires several people to work with. After this, you can begin to dismantle the clutch basket.

We see how the clutch discs on KamAZ are arranged - first the driven one, then the middle one, then the driving one. They are all removed. New parts are installed in place of dismantled parts. How to correctly install clutch discs on a KamAZ:

they must be installed in a strict order - initially the first slave comes, then the middle one, and at the final stage the leader;

since this is a dry type of clutch, there is no need to use any lubricant, this will only worsen the quality of the mechanism;
instead of traditional discs with friction linings, you can install more modern ones equipped with ceramic elements - they are much more reliable and durable;
carefully tighten all bolts and nuts. Due to heavy loads, poorly tightened fasteners can become loose over time.

You only need to install clutch discs on a KamAZ yourself if you clearly understand what exactly you are doing. This is a difficult task; if you lack experience or lack the necessary tools, it is strongly recommended to seek help from specialized specialists.

Assembly of parts and their replacement

Installing and replacing a double-disc clutch on a KAMAZ is a simple process. Common types of damage to the driven and pressure disks are cracks on their surfaces, on the linings, wear of the rings and linings, curvature of the disk, deterioration of the hub fastening, damage to the rivets, and scuffing on the disk surfaces. Replacing used gaskets with new ones requires removing old rivets. Disks that have become unusable also need to be replaced.

Not every car owner knows how to properly install clutch discs on a KAMAZ. There is a certain procedure.

The first of the driven disks is installed with the long end of its hub to the motor, and the second - with the same end to the gearbox. Before tightening the basket, the discs must be balanced.

As the linings on the driven disks wear out, as well as their replacement, the clutch drive should be adjusted, as well as the free play of the clutch.

We adjust the paws with our own hands

In Kamaz vehicles, the clutch performs the function of ensuring smooth starting of the vehicle, as well as disconnecting the engine from the transmission system when changing gears. The need to adjust the clutch basket feet (hereinafter referred to as the CS) in these car models is a common problem faced by many KamAZ owners.

Paws for KAMAZ clutch basket

The clutch in this car is an important and necessary component of the clutch system. Setting it up is an integral part of technical work, so KamAZ owners will not be able to avoid this activity.

What will you need?

Before we begin the repair work, we should prepare everything that we may need in the process.

set of wrenches;
flat slab;
silicone glue.

What is the price

The purchase price of individual mechanisms is high, so it is better to adjust the clutch system by correcting the shortcomings of existing parts.

A Euro 2 clutch disc, depending on the type, costs 1500-6000 rubles;
shutdown fork included - RUB 3,860;
piston group, depending on the manufacturer and brand of KamAZ - 6,000-25,000 rubles.

In order to perform clutch repairs infrequently, you need to regularly perform technical inspections and maintenance of the machine.