Gearbox UAZ Bukhanka 4-speed scheme

UAZ (loaf) cars have the most spacious body. The machine body is made of durable material. The vehicle is equipped with security systems, a durable power unit that is capable of developing more than 100 horsepower, and a transmission system.

The all-wheel drive cargo-passenger UAZ, which has increased cross-country ability, began to be mass-produced at the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant in the mid-1960s.

everything useful is here

Gearbox Four-speed gearbox with synchronizers in 3rd and 4th gears

1 — clutch release; 2, 6 - primary and secondary shafts; 3 - retaining ring or nut; 4, 10 — front and rear bearings of the secondary shaft; 5 — synchronizer clutch; 7, 8, 9 — gears of III, II and I gears; 11 — retaining ring; 12 — bolt securing the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft; 13 — bearing of the reverse gear block; 14 — axis of the reverse gear block; 15 — reverse gear block; 16 — spacer sleeve; 17, 18 — gears of the 2nd and 3rd gears of the intermediate shaft; 19 — drain plug; 20 - crankcase; 21 — intermediate shaft drive gear; 22 — intermediate shaft bearing; 23 - nut; 24 — intermediate shaft; 25 - plug; 26 — cover of the front bearing of the input shaft.

Four-speed gearbox with synchromesh in all forward gears

1, 16, 23 - primary, secondary and intermediate shafts; 2 — front bearing cover; 3 - special nut or retaining ring; 5 - gasket; 6 — input shaft bearing; 7 — front bearing of the secondary shaft; 8 — crankcase; 9 — synchronizer clutch for 3rd and 4th gears; 10, 11 — gears of III and II gears; 12 — synchronizer clutch for 1st and 2nd gears; 13 - 1st gear gear; 14 — locking plates; 15 — bearing; 17 — retaining ring; 18 — washer; 19 — spacer ring; 20 — intermediate shaft bearing; 21 - special bolt; 22 — special washer; 24 — reverse gear axis; 25 — reverse intermediate gear; 26 — drain plug; 27 — gear block for driving the intermediate shaft and 3rd gear; 28 — retaining ring; 29 - plug; 30 - roller bearing.

Five-speed gearbox

1 - input shaft; 2 — bearing cover; 3 — cuff of the input shaft; 4 - retaining ring; 5 — ball bearing of the input shaft; 6 — roller bearing of the secondary shaft; 7 — splined crown of the input shaft; 8 — blocking ring; 9 — synchronizer clutch for 3rd-4th gears; 10 — coupling hub; 11 - key; 12 — splined ring of the 3rd gear gear; 13 — third gear gear; 14 — gear bushing; 15 - 2nd gear gear; 16 - crankcase; 17 — 2nd gear bushing; 18 — splined ring gear of the 2nd gear; 19 — synchronizer clutch for 2nd-1st gears; 20 — splined ring of the 1st gear gear; 21 — 1st gear gear; 22 — bushing of the 1st gear gear; 23 — roller bearing of the secondary shaft; 24 — secondary shaft bushing; 25 — fifth gear driven gear; 26 — 5th gear housing; 27 — double-row ball bearing of the secondary shaft; 28 — spline washer; 29 — retaining ring; 30 - secondary shaft; 31 - bolt; 32 — disc spring; 33 - support ring; 34 — drive gear of 5th gear; 35 — splined ring of the 5th gear drive gear; 36 — synchronizer spring; 37 — synchronizer block; 38 — 5th gear synchronizer clutch; 39 — ball bearing of the intermediate shaft; 40 — roller bearing of the reverse gear; 41 — reverse gear; 42 — reverse gear axis; 43 — gear block for driving the intermediate shaft and 3rd gear; 44 — intermediate shaft; 45 — roller bearing of the intermediate shaft; 46 — bearing cover.

UAZ vehicles are equipped with three types of mechanical three-shaft gearboxes:

— four-speed, with synchronizers only in 3rd and 4th gears; — four-speed, with synchronizers in all forward gears; — five-speed, with synchronizers in all forward gears.

Four-speed gearboxes are interchangeable, but may have different sizes of input shaft splines (for different clutch drive discs). Five- and four-speed gearboxes are interchangeable complete with their transfer cases and driveshafts. When installing a five-speed gearbox instead of a four-speed gearbox, it is also necessary to modify the body floor hole for the transfer case levers. The components and parts of different gearboxes are not interchangeable.

The four-speed, partially synchronized gearbox consists of a one-piece cast-iron crankcase in which the primary, secondary and intermediate shafts are mounted on ball bearings. The front end of the secondary shaft rests on a roller full complement bearing in the bore of the rear end of the primary shaft, and the rear end rests on a double-row ball bearing, along which the gearbox and transfer case are centered.

Gearbox UAZ 469, 31512, 31514, 31519

0:7 The content of the article:

0:47

Gearbox repair after UAZ 31512 wedge
Defects of UAZ gearbox parts
UAZ gearbox repair (manual)
Characteristics of the gearbox for UAZ

Gearbox repair after UAZ 31512 wedge

Opening the gearbox revealed a crack that had come out of the 3rd and 4th gear clutch:

0:470

1:977

One of those fucking crackers. With a slight movement of the screwdriver, the coupling became movable and functional again. But for how long?

1:1226

2:1733

One of the three bastards

2:1778

We move the coupling to the side and use a flat-blade screwdriver to carefully hammer it. We pick out the fragments of crackers and put them together like a puzzle to make sure that there are no other foreign bodies left in the gearbox.

2:2158

3:506

Puzzles

3:522

While I was chopping and picking out crackers, I was turning the gearbox input shaft and involuntarily noticed a large (!) transverse play of the primary. I decided to take it off and check it out, and my surprise knew no bounds! The rollers of the rear bearing of the input shaft spilled into the gearbox housing like peas onto the floor. Although manuals for troubleshooting and repairing gearboxes assure that this should not be the case.

3:1145

4:1652

Bearing that ate itself

4:1705

It’s good that I bought these rollers in advance and had them in stock, so I didn’t have to run headlong to the store with these rollers...

4:1969

I coated the bearing seat generously with lithol and assembled the rollers in their installation location:

4:2150

5:506

Here, of course, I had to sweat and swear putting the videos together. 13 videos became normal, but the 14th, last one, just didn’t want to take its place among its twins. I had to get rid of it and lay out some of the rollers in a “rose pattern” and at the same time put everything together into the shaft. After long shamanic dances with a tambourine, calls to the UAZ gods and curses from the crooked designers, the videos fell into place. Naturally, the shaft was immediately installed in its original place.

5:1383

After I screwed the input shaft flange on, I was pleasantly surprised by the lack of lateral play. So the problem with the crack popping out of the clutch was associated with a crumbling rear input shaft bearing...

5:1784

Then the assembly operation begins and we remove the pre-purchased sets of gaskets for repairing the gearbox and gearbox.

5:2002

6:506

The manufacturer is of course noname, this is annoying but also leaves no choice. Everywhere in the stores there are the same sets of gaskets...

6:727

I separately assembled the gearbox and immediately threw it into the UAZ interior and separately assembled the gearbox, carefully examining the gearbox mounting plate. The slightest crack will cause vibration and will either make it difficult to engage the gearbox and gearbox or knock them out.

6:1123

We clean all the surfaces from the remnants of old gaskets, degrease them, apply sealant and assemble the gearbox with the manual transmission into a monoblock in the cabin.

6:1350

7:1857

Let me remind you that I carry out all operations in one face, and my face is not so wide that a 90-kg unit can be lifted from the floor and installed alone.

7:2126

I couldn’t get the box back in place for a long time—I removed and installed the gearbox three times. Either I can’t insert the fork into the clutch of the release bearing, or the gearbox won’t sit on the studs, although the splines of the input shaft engage with the clutch disc, and the shaft itself fits into the KV bearing. The engine was tilted and raised, but the gearbox did not move even if it cracked.

7:615

8:1122

Subject of Meditation

8:1159

9:1666

The checkpoint spent the night in such a “suspended state”

9:1753

I decided not to fool myself because... “Morning is wiser than evening” left the garage to wash and sleep.

9:1918

Waking up after morning exercise, I rushed back to the garage to finish what I started and then - bang - the gearbox flew straight into place, the clutch fork went into the release bearing like a nasty mother-in-law under the ice. I immediately replaced the gearbox cushions with new ones.

9:2342

10:506

The new pillows surprised me with bolts and nuts.

10:584

The bolts themselves do not have holes for cotter pins, and the nuts do not have cuts for these same cotter pins. But it doesn’t matter - we’ll use old ones that don’t seem to have been killed. Moreover, the new bolts are made of plasticine iron, as evidenced by the strength class 4.8 stamped on the bolt heads.

10:1107

And the further into the forest, the thicker the partisans became - the gasket for the gearshift lever from a non-name gasket set was not even surprising:

10:1365

11:1872

The gasket was cut Monday morning on a shaky knee.

11:1992

What was more surprising was that all the other gaskets in the kit were aligned with the holes. Only this one stood out. Doesn't matter - I have sealant.

11:2245

Well, then everything is simple - we put on the cardan shafts, fasten the traverse, check the operation of the gearbox and control gear. I filled the crankcases with diesel fuel and drove the units in different gears and then filled them with fresh TAD-17 and assembled the interior.

11:414

Testing the gearbox after removing the cracks showed that the gears are engaged more clearly, but double depressing of the clutch is required both when shifting gears both up and down.

11:740

Defects of UAZ gearbox parts

This photo shows the cover with the gear shift forks. Visually, I did not notice any wear on the forks! But you must definitely move your fork hands. If they start to dangle on the rods, then you need to unscrew the wire holding them in place and tighten the bolts tighter! So, visually they look great.

12:1862

Now looking inside the box. You can only sigh. Here you don’t even need a feeler gauge to see how much wear there is on the second gear gear and on the end of the secondary shaft in the area of the coupling teeth. Ideally it should be 0.2mm. After working, of course, a little more. But here you can clearly see that the gap is at least 3.5 mm. Such a gear is only for discarding. Because its coupling teeth will only engage halfway. Compare the length of the teeth and the width of the backlash yourself.

13:3198

When the input shaft is removed, let's inspect it. The synchronizer is no longer good for anything, since its guide teeth are clogged to stupidity. The coupling teeth have already done a good job. Uniform stripes of wear are clearly visible from the bottom of the teeth. But from above, on the other hand, the rust on the far half of the tooth is clearly visible. This indicates that the gear clutch became sideways or was pressed out when releasing the gas. So, the input shaft is ejected along with the synchronizer.

14:1339

We take out the synchronizer clutch with the hub. Visually. The 4th gear teeth on the clutch look great. Unfortunately, their lateral wear from the teeth of the input shaft is not visible?

15:2165

I wonder if the retaining ring came out on its own? If so, then the locking groove on the secondary shaft has broken into a cone and the ring has been squeezed out of it under load. This means you’ll have to go to a turner, and he’ll carefully straighten out this hardened groove with a very strong cutter. Behind the ring you can see the spacer sleeve or washer, as you wish. You will have to immediately install a new bearing on the shaft at the turner, put the retaining ring back in the groove, and the turner will immediately turn you a new spacer washer. The washer should be so thick that it fits between the bearing and the retaining ring with a slight tension or no more than 0.1 mm minus. Although it is possible that the store sells new retaining rings and spacer bushings of different thicknesses. At least for Land Rover this is how it is done. But I hope the retaining ring has been removed.

16:1965

Here, too, I see some wear and tear on the walls. If yes! This means you need to install a new lock washer that is thicker. But, if the synchronizer hub also dangles on the shaft splines. It’s best to change the shaft too! Although the splines look neat and there are no signs of wear. Most likely the shaft is in good condition.

16:2533

Addition to what was written: The retaining ring itself may play in the groove along the shaft. The main thing is that when the third gear gear and synchronizer clutch are mounted on the shaft, the gap between the retaining ring and the synchronizer clutch is minimal. That is, the larger the gap, the more the gear and clutch dangle on the axis. That’s why we strive to ensure that all gears and couplings have the minimum possible backlash. Ideally from 0.1 to 0.2 mm. Although I assembled boxes in which this play was 0.5 mm. But the less the better. If the gap between the lock washer and the synchronizer hub is more than a millimeter? You need to install a thicker lock washer. Or it’s more difficult to do if the backlashes are not removed, because the third gear gear is new, and the end of the shaft to which it presses is already very worn. It is necessary to sharpen this end on the shaft, to which the gear is pressed, a little. And put a bronze washer 3...4mm thick there. such a thickness that it would select the entire movement of the 3rd gear gear on the shaft and press the synchronizer clutch to the locking ring.

17:2417

The clutch and teeth facing the third or fourth gear look good. The edges of the teeth are intact. I don't notice any oblique wear. But if the gears are changed, then the clutch and hub assembly automatically changes. Although I would put this part aside as a spare part, just in case. And if you really don’t have enough money, then I would install it. If everything is adjusted correctly, nothing will be loose and the transmission has not been knocked out before. I don't see any crime. The main thing is that the hub sits tightly on the shaft.

18:1446

The same goes for the hub.

19:2007

The replacement synchronizer has blunted tooth edges. In this case, they will not slide to the side when the clutch teeth pass through them; accordingly, the gear lever will have some difficulty engaging the gear.

20:917

The teeth of the third gear gear are clogged to the point of stupidity, and even traces of chips are visible. It will be difficult to engage third gear, and only every once in a while. She's not a tenant! Replacement only. The former owner clearly did not bother to wait until the synchronizers equalized the shaft rotation speeds. Moreover, Nigrol contributes to this.

21:1994

And this is what she looks like from behind. The distance washer that stands behind is very worn out. You need to buy a new washer, preferably adjusted to size. As a last resort, carve a new one from bronze. On my Lada, that’s where the bronze one is. The main thing is that the 3rd gear gear fidgets on the shaft no more than 0.2 mm. And the copper bushing has already begun to crumble. This means that the gear was simply hanging on the shaft. But she has a tolerance of 0.06mm.

21:2766

Addition

21:23

Now comes the hard part. Yes, you can measure the inner diameter of the gear with a bore gauge or a digital caliper. Then measure the shaft journal, subtract one from the other and get the result. But unfortunately, this measuring tool costs more than a new shaft, and much more! Therefore, I can only offer two options.

21:601

1) The bushing on the new gear still has a ready-made size, and you can hardly change anything here.

21:812

2) Now a way to check the runout of the shafts in the bushings. On fingers. And in the literal sense of the word. The human hand begins to feel the beating of parts in the region of 0.1 mm. Well, if you feel the beating already with a clear knock. This means the runout is already around 0.2mm. and more.

21:1271

But the most important thing here is not the beating of the gear on the shaft, but how large the movement of the gear along the shaft is.

21:1456

The gear should move as little as possible from the 3rd - 4th gear clutch to the thrust end on the shaft. Ideally 0.08...0.2mm.

22:2187

And the second gear gear is beyond competition. It was so worn out that the workings had eaten away the sharp edges of the coupling teeth. And this is about a millimeter. This means that the gear was moving on the secondary shaft by at least 3.5 mm (second photo) with a tolerance of 0.2 mm. This one needs to go to a museum!

23:1001

The teeth on the first gear gear are also clogged, so it will be very problematic to engage the second gear.

24:1713

The intermediate shaft gear had no broken teeth or broken splines. As a rule, this is always the case. If something has not damaged the teeth of the intermediate shaft, then, as a rule, only the bearings on the shaft are replaced. The exception is severely damaged reverse gear teeth.

25:2701

The teeth on the reverse gear are jammed. Quite a common defect. It also needs to be replaced, since wear occurs on the cone, and after a while the gear may begin to knock out. Take a closer look at the larger gear - you can see it better from below.

26:944

The axis on which the reverse gear rotates looks good. I really don’t remember that it was ever changed.

26:1164

But the bearing needs to be changed since it is already showing wear. The main feature of roller bearings is: if the roller falls out of the cage, then the bearing has worn out.

27:1997

Judging by the photographs. The crackers were removed from the synchronizer clutch. Nothing surprising. With such a large backlash in the gears (along the shafts), the runners of the 3rd and 4th gear clutches began to go beyond the synchronizer clutch when the gears were engaged. After which they began to bulge outwards under the influence of the spring and as a result it was impossible to turn off the gears. Precisely, to prevent this from happening, I try to remove all the play on the gearbox shafts and power forks during repairs.

27:851

Verdict. In the box you need to change gears 1,2,3, gears. Also replace the input shaft, all bearings, and the reverse gear. Not strictly necessary, but you need a clutch with a hub and both synchronizers. If the new gears hang on the old shaft by more than 0.15 mm. (The hand perfectly feels a knock above 0.1 mm.) This means that the secondary shaft must also be replaced.

27:1477

If you increasingly have to hold the gearshift lever while driving, if the transfer case levers have long been tied with ropes :), if when driving, even on the rear axle, a discordant concert begins under you, then it’s time. It's time to remove the box and figure out how this collection of gears and bearings works.

27:2049

I warn you right away - I’m not going to argue with the authors of books on UAZs, this article is only an addition to the books, taking into account the fact that you don’t have a service station, a lift, three mechanics and the like.

27:342

UAZ gearbox repair (manual)

Look at what kind of gearbox you have. If you're not familiar with the concept of double-throttle, all gears, both up and down, shift easily, and the lever travels the same distance when engaging first gear as when engaging third - you have a fully synchronized gearbox. Everything that will be written further about the gearbox does not apply to you. However, the transfer cases are the same, and you may still find some of this article useful. For off-road use, a gearbox with synchronizers only in third or fourth gears is preferable, the so-called. "old style".

27:1475

Having decided on the type of your box, we will prepare the tool. To completely disassemble and reassemble the “old-style” gearbox and transfer case without any special tricks, you need the following tool:

27:1835

Open-end wrenches - 10, 12, 13, 14, 17, 19, 22. It would be better in two copies. Particular attention should be paid to the 14th key - it should not be very thick and under no circumstances bend, otherwise turning the rear driveshaft away from the transfer case flange can cause trouble.

27:2294

Socket wrenches - 10, 12, 13, 14, 17, 19, 22, 24, 27, 36. The thinner the walls, the better. The usual domestic set of heads did not fit everywhere. 36 heads are not found in all sets; I bought a hub key from a GAZelle and passed it with flying colors. And it was cheap.

27:454

A special wrench for tightening flat nuts - these are found on the steering column of bicycles. I also picked up a bicycle key, but in general this is wrong.

27:732

Screwdrivers - flat and Phillips. Both powerful for large screws and small ones.

27:889

Platypuses - regular straight ones with curved noses for removing and putting on locking rings.

27:1047

Something copper to stick between the gear teeth when loosening and tightening the shaft nuts. I used an old synchronizer.

27:1286

A drift is a metal pin, preferably made of copper.

27:1380

A piece of metal pipe - for putting on keys. Sometimes the nuts and bolts are so tight that they cannot be unscrewed otherwise.

27:1583

Core and chisel. The core must be of high quality so that upon impact, its pieces do not fly into the brand new bearing.

27:1774

Mounting blade. This is how the wheels are usually mounted. A very necessary thing.

27:1903

Hammer. It should be quite heavy, sometimes you have to hit it “as hard as you can.”

27:2050

Cans for screws and other small items. The more, the better - when you put everything back together, you will appreciate this advice.

27:182

Bearing puller. You can do without it, but it’s a convenient thing.

27:301

A book and catalog with good pictures. Necessarily. And read before you start unscrewing anything. Pay special attention to places where there are left-handed threads and the location of washers, stops and other small items. It’s best to remember (or write down) everything when disassembling

27:808

I use red ABRO sealant for gaskets. Domestic white is only suitable for water supply, and even then not everywhere.

27:1026

I use Litol as the cheapest grease. Gaskets are sold in sets “For gearbox” and “For transfer case”. All gaskets need to be changed; leaving the old ones will not work. It is also useful (but not necessary) to buy a “Gearbox Repair Kit” and a “Transfer Box Repair Kit”, which consist of retaining rings, shims and other small things that would be better to change. I really couldn’t find a distribution kit in all of St. Petersburg, but there are almost no small things there.

27:1935

Removing the Gearbox-Transfer Box Assembly

27:2032

In UAZ vehicles, the gearbox and transfer case are interlocked into one unit, which is very correct. But it’s very heavy (80 kg). Therefore, it is quite difficult to remove this weighty unit alone (and this is exactly what happens most often). The photo shows how I get out of the situation - using the Lika-2 manual winch. But I have a roll cage that I hook her to. Having once forgotten the winch, I got out of the situation with the help of an ordinary crowbar and rope. But I won’t undertake to put the box in place without a winch alone.

27:913

So let's begin. We place the car on a flat surface, taking into account that it will have to be rolled half a meter back and forth. We drain the oil - the gearbox and transfer case have separate drain and filler plugs, although the volume is the same.

27:1330

While the oil is draining, remove the front seats. Then we unscrew and remove the two halves of the hatch in the floor. We unscrew and remove the speedometer drive away.

27:1616

The oil is just glass, we wrap it in place of the plug. We unscrew the frame cross member that runs directly under the handbrake drum. We unscrew the cardans from the transfer case flanges. It is more convenient to unscrew the front driveshaft if the front axle clutches are disconnected. If your cardans have weak spline joint nuts, it’s better to remove the cardans completely, but in general it’s enough to tie them to the frame so they don’t get in the way. It is much more convenient to unscrew the rear driveshaft from above, from the hatch; this is where the car will have to be slightly rolled forward and backward. We unscrew the muffler from the transfer case and loosen the clamp on the muffler itself, otherwise it will interfere.

27:2770

28:506

Unscrew the clutch pan. We unscrew the fastening of the oiler of the input shaft splines (on the right side of the bell) and push the hose inside the bell. We unscrew the four bolts securing the clutch fork housing, remove the spring, twist the adjustment on the working cylinder rod and pull out the fork.

28:1046

We wrap a rope around the box with the transfer case and hang it up. We unscrew and remove the bolts of the pillows, unscrew the nuts securing the box to the bell. Do this gradually; the nuts on the left side will only be completely unscrewed when the box has already partially moved away from the bell. Help yourself with editing. In this case, it is better to support the engine with a jack, otherwise it will remain on two supports and the “rear” part will lower and interfere. When the box finally hangs, carefully lower it down. It is better to change the studs in the bell - they are under heavy loads, and it is 50/50 that the threads on them are damaged. If the car is standing on the ground, to make it easier to pull it out from under the car, the levers must be removed. When removing the gear shift lever, you need to hold the cover - there is a spring under it.

29:2915

Remove the handbrake lever so it doesn't interfere. By unscrewing two bolts and two nuts, we disconnect the gearbox and transfer case. Since the gasket between them is probably sealed, they are separated by several blows to the bracket securing the unit to the frame. Don't lose the "Countershaft Thrust Washer". If it is there and differs from the photograph, I beg you to take a photograph and send the photo to me, I have never seen it. The photo shows an oil squeegee ring out of the box, the correct diameter.

29:903

Transmission

29:938

30:1443

Remove the cover with the gear shift forks. Remove the input shaft cover. Having engaged any gear, we put the copper into the teeth and unscrew the flat nut on the input shaft (it’s the left one!). Now we look inside the box - on the input shaft gear there is a cutout for a large intermediate gear. We position the shaft so that the cutout coincides and, using careful oblique blows on the shaft, press out the bearing of the input shaft. The main thing is not to rush and hit in a circle so as not to distort the bearing and ruin the seat. In the photo there is a shaft that I have already taken out three times, I don’t know what happened before me. As you can see, it is hardened and does not suffer from blows. If the input shaft bearing is worn out, knock it down and install a new one. He suffers, perhaps, the most, so 90% of him will have to be changed. These bearings come with a closed and open cage, I don’t understand the difference - it’s still under the cover.

30:2983

Inside the input shaft lives a roller bearing without a cage. Most likely it fell apart during disassembly. Collect it. If the last roller stands up easily, it needs to be changed. With a new set of rollers, the last one can only be inserted with great difficulty and “lengthwise”. It even seemed to me that they slipped me the wrong one.

30:547

31:1052

Remove the retaining ring from the secondary shaft and unscrew the double-row bearing stoppers. We knock out the secondary shaft. By the way, when I needed to replace only a double-row bearing, I managed to do it without disassembling anything else. I took off the retaining ring and picked it out. By the way, the box still drives.

32:2114

Now we take out the 3-4 gear clutch assembly. Remember how it stood - on the contrary, it will fit onto the shaft, but the input shaft will not fit. The copper synchronizers will most likely need to be replaced, as well as three crackers with springs and balls (nowadays they sell crackers without balls, with protrusions, which are easier to assemble). When assembling the coupling, do not turn the inner part relative to the outer one. We take out the secondary shaft and repair the shaft, double row and gears.

33:1285

Remove the reverse gear shaft. To do this, use a flat-head screwdriver to unscrew the locking screw from the hole (marked in red in the figure), and then knock the shaft out of the box. Inside the gear there is a multi-row bearing with a plastic cage; we take out the retaining rings, the metal tube and remove the defective bearing. The box from the 72nd edition turned out to be intact.

34:2459

Unscrew the cover of the front bearing of the intermediate shaft. Try to keep the rubber seal on the lid - it’s a problem to buy. I do not recommend unscrewing it with a core - the lid is made of silumin. I unscrewed it with duckbills with curved ends, but you can make a key like a grinder from a piece of metal and two bolts. The photo shows how the holes become deformed after a couple of unscrewings. We put a piece of copper in the teeth of the gear and unscrew the bolt and nut of the shaft. Left bolt! The nut is 36, I specifically mentioned the key for it. Now you can knock out the shaft and replace (if necessary) the gears and bearings. Well, that's all, now we assemble the box with new parts in the reverse order. The outer bearing races must not rotate in their seats. You can combat this by piercing the entire surface of the seat with a herringbone pattern every 5-7 mm (c). If this does not help, the case needs to be replaced. When installing the rollers in the input shaft, generously coat them with “Litol” or something similar and put them on very carefully (the process is fun, like threading a needle). When installing the input shaft bearing cap, pay attention to the cutout in the gasket for the oil channel - it will probably have to be modified. Before installing the gear shift cover, compare the result with the photo. It wasn't all right for me the first time :). When installing a cover with forks, make sure that the forks are in the right place.

34:2485

Transfer case

34:42

First you need to loosen the nuts of the flanges and transfer case shafts - to do this, insert bolts of suitable diameter into the two holes of the flange and hold them in place. The shaft nuts are hidden under the covers; they must be unscrewed - the shafts can be removed with the nuts, but then it is very difficult to unscrew them. By unscrewing the flanges, remove the handbrake (at the same time you can check its functionality and change the pads). The soured working cylinder is disassembled and soaked in diesel fuel, checked. There are no spare parts for the brake - either pads or everything assembled.

34:1006

We remove the covers with seals and change the seals (unless they are completely new), not forgetting to fill the free space with “Litol.” Unscrew the bolt by 10 and remove the speedometer drive. We unscrew the breather and replace it with a new one (100% soured). Better yet, call the phone to the salon. Unscrew the stopper of the guide forks.

34:1545

Now you can “halve” the transfer case - Remove all the retaining rings from the bearings, unscrew all the bolts around the perimeter and remove the large cover. If necessary, we change the roller bearing in this cover, the inner race is pressed onto the shaft. There are two bearings on the rear axle shaft, the second one must be inspected.

34:2160

The transfer case is assembled in reverse order. You need to carefully inspect the flanges and replace them at the slightest sign of wear on the splines; it progresses very quickly. Wear on the forks is also unacceptable. Don't forget to core the nuts.

34:398

Assembling the unit and installing it in place

34:471

We glue the gaskets between the box and the transfer case onto the sealant. We put the mounting bracket to the frame in place. We place the transfer case on the handbrake drum, and holding the gear in the transfer case through the “power take-off hatch,” we lower the box into place, not forgetting to place the same “intermediate shaft thrust washer.” Let's take care of our fingers. We tighten two bolts and two nuts, put on the covers with levers and check the operation of all gears of the box and transfer case. We're glad it worked out.

34:1306

We replace the release bearing with one pre-welded in nigrol. We remove the levers, drag the unit under the car and hang it on a rope. We put the release assembly on the box and install the spring. Now the most difficult part is to insert the input shaft into the clutch. Slightly moving the box up and down, turning the engine with a jack and turning the engine by the flywheel, sooner or later we put the box in place. You shouldn’t place the box right next to each other - first, on the left, insert the growers with nuts into the gap. We pull the unit to the engine and attach it to the cushions. Reinstall the clutch fork and oiler for the input shaft splines. We put in place the speedometer drive, covers with handles, handbrake, cardan shafts. Please note that stores often sell disposable cardan bolts. A normal bolt is hardened, with the letter “X” on the head. The letter “CH” on the head indicates the manufacturing plant and does not serve as a guarantee of strength. We put the frame cross member in place and attach the muffler bracket to the transfer case. Setting up the handbrake.

34:3136

We fill in the oil, put the hatch in the floor and seats in place and go check the results.

34:148

Characteristics of the gearbox for UAZ

There are quite a few transmission options for UAZ cars, and personally we were faced with a rather difficult choice... Refurbish our gearbox (4 mortars of the old model) and RK (old model), or replace it with a new model gearbox (4 mortars of the new model) or just go even further and install a five-speed gearbox (ADS, Arzamas, Ulyanovskaya, DYMOS) and a small-module RK... Arzamas was not even considered, because This is the worst thing you can imagine on a UAZ car. It is almost impossible to find a Ulyanovsk gearbox in our area... Well, DYMOS... again, expensive, and there is an almost complete lack of spare parts for it in our city. So the choice consisted of 3 options - the “Old Model” checkpoint, the “New Model” checkpoint and the “ADS” checkpoint.

34:1498

4-speed gearbox

34:1536

35:2041

There are two types of 4-speed gearboxes on UAZ: “old” with synchronizers only at 3 and 4 speeds and (since 1989) “new” - with synchronizers at all four speeds.

35:305

Gear ratios of the “old” gearbox:

35:367

I gear - 4.124 II gear - 2.641 III gear - 1.58 IV gear - 1.00 R reverse - 5.224

35:524

Gear ratios of the “new” gearbox:

35:584

I gear - 3.78 II gear - 2.60 III gear - 1.55 IV gear - 1.00 R reverse - 4.12

35:738

Advantages of the “old” gearbox: greater traction, simpler design, ease of repair, cheaper spare parts, indestructible, reliable.

35:959

Disadvantages of the “old” gearbox: Less dynamic than the “new” one, lack of synchronizers in 1st and 2nd gears.

35:1138

Advantages of the “new” gearbox: Dynamics are better than those of the “old” gearbox, relative ease of repair, presence of synchronizers in all gears.

35:1376

Disadvantages of the “new” gearbox: Less traction than the “old” gearbox, more expensive spare parts than for the “old” gearbox, less reliability.

35:1574

5-speed gearbox

35:1614

36:2119

Gear ratios:

36:39

I gear - 3.83 II gear - 2.16 III gear - 1.29 IV gear - 1.00 V gear - 0.79 R reverse - 3.52

36:222

Pros: Less noisy, more economical, faster, smoother shifting, 5th gear available.

36:423

Cons: Price, more expensive spare parts, less reliability.

36:518

PRICES "ADS" manual transmission5 - from 28 tr. (new) up to 10-15 for used Manual transmission4 "Old" model - from 20 tr. (new) up to 1 tr. for used Manual transmission4 “New” model - from 21 tr. (new) up to 1 tr. for used

36:810

https://www.drive2.ru/l/4086056/, https://www.uazbuka.ru/repair_gearbox_2.html, https://www.uazbuka.ru/repair_gearbox.htm
36:933 Rating 4.75 [2 Votes (s)] 95536

UAZ transmission components

The new UAZ 452 family vehicles have a manual transmission (four-speed). Inertial type synchronizers provide easier gear shifting. The five-speed ADS gearbox is synchronized in all forward gears.

The UAZ can be equipped with a 5-speed manual transmission Daimos (DYMOS). This gearbox is distinguished by its reliability. Its average service life is 300,000 km. The filler plug is located in the middle of the box, the drain is at the bottom. It seems possible to unscrew them using a hex key. When oil is drained, special containers should be prepared. New fluid must be filled to the level of the oil filler hole on the box. The dipstick allows you to accurately determine to what level the liquid is filled. An alternative to the probe can be a long nail. For preventive purposes, the oil level must be measured every 15,000 km.

The need to diagnose the UAZ model 452 gearbox

This vehicle must be diagnosed if control begins to deteriorate, characteristic creaks are heard when a gear change occurs, or gears begin to change spontaneously. The UAZ transfer case should be checked if the grip of the wheels on the road has noticeably deteriorated, a hum or increasing noise has begun to appear during its operation.

During maintenance, technicians must check the system for oil leaks and lubricant levels. All worn parts in the transmission system must be replaced with new ones. Also, diagnostics involves lubricating the lever axle and adjusting the front linkages.

Routine diagnostics in a professional auto repair shop allows you to accurately determine the existing nature of the problem with the gearbox and eliminate existing problems at an early stage.

Causes of breakdowns

As a rule, the need to replace the main components of a gearbox arises due to their natural wear and tear.

The main reason for oil leakage from the gearbox is the presence of an increased level of fuel in the system. For UAZ gearboxes, you should use high-quality oil. If the liquid is not of the proper quality, this may cause characteristic noises from the box. When the synchronizer or its parts wear out, it is always difficult to change gears. You should also pay attention to the details of the switching mechanism. When gear teeth are deformed, gears often switch off automatically.

Dimensional and mass indicators

length – 4847 mm;
width – 1990 mm;
height – 2355 mm;
wheelbase – 2550 mm;
curb weight – 1995 kg;
total weight – 3070 kg;
load capacity – 1075 kg;
turning radius – 7.5 m;
fuel tank capacity - 56 l (optional, you can install a second tank of 30 l);
tires – 225/75 R16С, 225/85 R15С.

As already noted, the UAZ-39094 has excellent off-road capabilities, which are provided not only by all-wheel drive, the ability to engage low gears and leaf spring suspension, but also by an impressive ground clearance of 220 mm.

This height allows you to easily overcome 30-degree climbs. The car is not afraid of water obstacles up to half a meter deep. This all-terrain vehicle will behave equally confidently not only on rough terrain, but also when moving through shallow mountain springs with a rocky bottom.

Despite the increased maneuverability of this model, it is still not recommended to abuse this quality. For example, you shouldn’t intentionally drive your car into deep liquid mud, otherwise you might not be able to get out without a tractor.

Overcoming obstacles on the UAZ-39094

The passenger compartment is equipped with a small table and three seats, which, if necessary, can be folded, transforming them into a pair of berths. There is a special spacious compartment for storing things and equipment.

The disadvantages of the rear seats include their rigidity and the inability to install a child seat.

The situation is better with the front seats. They are equipped with headrests and have the function of adjusting the distance to the steering wheel and the position of the backrest.

In the cold season, a comfortable temperature in the rear of the cabin is ensured by a powerful heater, and in the front there is a stove with the ability to adjust the temperature. In hot summers, you can use the ventilation hatch located in the roof to further cool the interior. The excellent vibration and noise insulation of the cabin deserves all praise. It should be noted that this is a real luxury for cargo and passenger vehicles.

Transmission removal process

It is quite possible to repair the gearbox on a UAZ 452 yourself. This requires:

a set of wrenches, including the keys needed to tighten the nuts;
screwdrivers;
hammer;
chisel;
pliers.

Dismantling algorithm.

The car must be parked on level ground. It is necessary to drain the oil from the two boxes by unscrewing the drain plugs. Next, the front seats, hatch halves, clutch release fork, transverse frame, and gear shift levers are removed.

The speedometer shaft, suspension supports in the chassis, and brake system levers must be removed. As a result, the exit to the clutch housing opens. The box is fixed on it with fastening nuts, which must be unscrewed, then the UAZ gearbox along with the transfer gearbox is carefully pulled out until the spline shaft exits the flywheel. The driver will need an assistant to remove the box.

Assembling a UAZ gearbox requires due attention. During self-assembly, the driver may have difficulty installing the input shaft into the clutch system. During this process, it is necessary to actively move the box so that the shaft gets into the splines.

As soon as disassembly into individual component parts has occurred, the box must be washed in kerosene and dried. All spare parts are checked for integrity. First of all, this concerns the crankcase and shafts. If the threads on the shafts are damaged, they need to be replaced. It seems dangerous to operate the machine if there are chips on the gears.

Thus, timely repair of the UAZ “loaf” gearbox helps to extend the service life of the gearbox.

The UAZ car is common on Russian roads, is distinguished by its reliability and the ability to move on asphalt areas and off-road. The UAZ gearbox is a mechanical type with 4 steps. The mechanism is distinguished by the presence of synchronizers, the function of which is to equalize the speed. This is one of the key elements of any transport. The functionality of other systems and the quality of driving a car depend on its operation.

Service station or self-repair?

It is this question that often makes bus owners think. In this case, it is recommended to proceed from the specific situation. There are minor malfunctions, to eliminate which it is enough to tighten a few nuts, which is quite possible to do yourself.

If you are faced with a serious breakdown of the UAZ 452 gearbox, it is advisable to turn to professionals. Moreover, you need to focus on a service station that specializes in transmission repair. One of them is an atelier in St. Petersburg, whose services can be found on the portal spb-avtoremont.ru.

A distinctive feature of this service station is its specialization in the repair of mechanical transmissions, transfer cases and engines. This allows craftsmen to work with boxes, regardless of model and year, and also maintain reasonable prices. In particular, the price for repairing a removed gearbox starts at 3,000 rubles. In addition, station employees, if necessary, help the client find spare parts.

Design and principle of operation

The gearbox diagram contains information about the main and additional elements of the system. The UAZ gearbox structure includes the following units and parts:

Fully synchronized installation, ensuring speed equalization and smooth switching.
Primary shaft on 2 supports.
Helical intermediate gears for shaft drive.
An angular contact ball bearing, consisting of 2 rows and located on the rear of the shaft, is necessary to perceive and respond in a timely manner to loads arising during driving in the radial and axial planes.
A transfer case consisting of a main axle shaft and a gear with a large working life.

Malfunctions and repairs

The first signs indicating a malfunction of the automotive system should force the car owner to carry out diagnostics. In some cases, this can be done on your own. Simple breakdowns can be repaired with your own hands. It is better to entrust more complex faults to a service center.

Signs indicating the need to repair the UAZ gearbox:

deterioration of management;
squeaks and extraneous noises when changing speeds;
independent activation of transmission.

In most cases, when uncharacteristic noise is observed, the cause lies in wear or defect of the bearings and gears. Stiff gear shifting indicates a malfunction of the synchronizers.

The main reason for the problems that arise is the natural wear and tear of parts.

The need to check the transfer case is indicated by deterioration in wheel adhesion to the road surface and increased noise levels from the area where the unit is located. Damage is caused by: careless operation of vehicles, untimely maintenance, use of low-quality consumables, fuel and gear oil, lack of control over the volume of working fluids.

Another group of problems is related to the leakage of the oil mixture from the gearbox. Possible reasons:

exceeding the maximum oil volume in the box;
water entering the system when refueling;
a crack on the unit cover or on the crankcase.

The UAZ high-speed gearbox consists of a large number of working elements and components. Their normal functioning and interaction ensure reliable use of vehicles. Gearbox repairs will not be required if you regularly inspect your vehicle.

Mechanism adjustment

After assembling and installing the new switching mechanism, it is necessary to adjust the rods and the entire system. The goal is achieved by changing the length of the vertical and horizontal rods. Do-it-yourself setup sequence:

Move the gear shift lever to the neutral position, and move the element responsible for selecting the gear all the way.
Move lever 1 to positions corresponding to speeds 1 and 2. While checking that the elements are not pulled up, connect and secure the selection rod.
Similar actions must be carried out for other gear stages.

After work, you should check that the gears are fully engaged by starting first gear and reverse. The lever must not come into contact with other parts or controls. The optimal gap size is up to 3 mm.

How to disassemble

Before repairing a 5- or 4-speed gearbox (new model), you must carefully study the device diagram, prepare material and tools. To dismantle the unit yourself you will need:

wrenches: open-end and socket;
screwdrivers;
hammer;
assembly shovel.

The large weight of the product due to contact with the dispensing system requires an assistant during operation and removal of the box.

How to assemble

Assembly and installation of the automatic transmission is carried out in the following order:

Placing the box in place, tightening the bolts and other fasteners.
Attachment to the main structure of the transfer case.
Installation of the speed release fork, clutch pan near the muffler, frame, speedometer shaft and cardan. At this stage you can assemble the lever.
Installation of seats in the interior.
Filling the container with new transmission oil.

After this, you can remove the car from the inspection hole. To install a new gearbox on a UAZ and replace other parts, first carefully read the mechanism diagram.

Technical characteristics of UAZ-39094

The UAZ-39094 “Farmer” differs from the basic UAZ-3303 in greater power and performance, better cross-country ability and stability. It can rightfully be called one of the most successful cargo-passenger SUVs produced by UAZ.

Engine and transmission

The car is equipped with an extremely reliable and productive power unit ZMZ-40911.10, which has the following characteristics:

type – in-line;
type of fuel – gasoline (octane number not lower than 92);
working volume - 2.693 l;
total number of cylinders – 4;
Max. power – 112.2 hp (82.5 kW) at 4250 rpm. in min.;
Max. torque - 198 N*m at 2500 rpm. in min.;
engine weight without special fluids – 190 kg;
Max. speed – 115 km/h;
average fuel consumption per 100 km is 10 liters (at a speed of 60 km), 15 liters (at 100 km).

A complex microprocessor system controls injection and ignition. It also ensures optimal engine operation, helping to save fuel under increased loads.

The motor has a combined lubrication system that eliminates friction of parts by spraying oil under pressure. The gas distribution mechanism is made of particularly durable materials, which makes it highly reliable. Without major overhaul, the engine can travel 500,000 km.

Heat removal is carried out through a liquid cooling system, which includes the following elements:

water pump;
radiator;
thermostat;
temperature and alarm sensors;
coolant (any brand of antifreeze or plain water is suitable).

The engine is paired with a transmission consisting of a 5-speed manual gearbox and a 2-speed transfer case, which manually disengages the front axle drive. Some new car modifications are equipped with a forced differential locking system for the rear axle.

Brake system

Another nice feature of the “Farmer” is an effective braking system equipped with a vacuum booster. Moreover, there are disc brakes at the front and drum brakes at the rear. This configuration guarantees that the car will be able to brake as quickly as possible, even in difficult road conditions.

Platform

The UAZ-39094 model is equipped with a spacious onboard platform made of durable metal with wooden flooring. The structure is equipped with removable frame arches for mounting the awning and the awning itself, opening on three sides. Installation and dismantling of the awning is carried out simply and quickly, even by one person. To transport passengers, a row of seats is installed in the body.

Compared to the base UAZ-3303 truck, the Farmer’s platform is located 10 cm lower, which significantly simplifies loading and unloading operations.

The overall dimensions of the cargo compartment are as follows:

length – 2040 mm;
width – 1870 mm;
side height – 400 mm;
height with awning – 1400 mm.

Dimensional and mass indicators

length – 4847 mm;
width – 1990 mm;
height – 2355 mm;
wheelbase – 2550 mm;
curb weight – 1995 kg;
total weight – 3070 kg;
load capacity – 1075 kg;
turning radius – 7.5 m;
fuel tank capacity - 56 l (optional, you can install a second tank of 30 l);
tires – 225/75 R16С, 225/85 R15С.

Overcoming obstacles on the UAZ-39094

The disadvantages of the rear seats include their rigidity and the inability to install a child seat.

The situation is better with the front seats. They are equipped with headrests and have the function of adjusting the distance to the steering wheel and the position of the backrest.