Gearbox for Renault Magnum B18
Repair of branded Renault-B 18 gearboxes to guarantee further stable operation should be trusted to trusted car services that have special equipment and mechanics familiar with the technical features of gearboxes of this brand. Nowadays, there are not so many good services specializing in the restoration of Renault units, and in order to reduce the downtime of the car, without spending it on searching for specialists and original components, you can use the services of our company to deliver a contract Renault Magnum gearbox from Europe.
Contract transmissions have no mileage in Russia; they are removed from cars that were used in European countries. We have been cooperating only with reliable European dismantling companies for many years, guaranteeing our customers the quality of each unit sold.
Despite the fact that the gearboxes are not new, they have a large residual life, since cars in Europe are not maintained for more than three to five years, considering this to be unprofitable.
MAZ-54329: Installation of engine, gearbox and rear axle from Renault Major
A friend of mine, an enterprising Ukrainian driver, having driven through the hills of Western Ukraine in his MAZ-54329 and realizing the shortcomings of the car, decided to deal with them once and for all. He did not take the long route and gradually improve his car step by step, but decided to get rid of all the problems at once. I took the MIDR-062045 engine with a power of 338 hp, the Renault B-18 gearbox and the rear axle from Renault Major. The integration of the engine and gearbox onto the MAZ frame was carried out using brackets from Renault Major. The generator was taken from MAZ.
Front engine Renault MIDR-062045
The rear axle was borrowed entirely, fortunately it was from the Majora spring modification and there were no particular difficulties with its installation. In principle, it was possible to leave the MAZ bridge, but it would be necessary to select a gearbox with a gear ratio of 4.84.
Rear view of the installed Renault Major rear axle
I had to use brake ratchets from MAZ and remake the brake shafts, because... The splines on the MAZ and Renault ratchets are different. In order to use the MAZ cardan, it was necessary to sharpen spacers between the cardan flange, the gearbox flanges and the rear axle. The radiator and intercooler were also taken from Renault Major. The gear shift lever was assembled from parts of the scenes from MAZ and Mazhora. Everything else was customized in place.
Renault V-18 gearbox and gear shift rod
An acquaintance spent a month re-equipping the car, periodically listening to skeptical comments from friends, and finally, the time came for the first departure.
The visit showed that all the work was not in vain. An empty car coupled with a three-axle semi-trailer had a capacity of 25 liters, and loaded with 22 tons, its fuel consumption was around 32-34 liters.
In one year of operation, the car, due to lower diesel consumption, fully paid for the purchase of used spare parts and a month of downtime during conversion. On the highway, the truck became much easier to overcome long climbs and allowed the same routes to travel at higher speeds.
The imported Renault B-18 gearbox, due to well-chosen gear ratios, made it possible to use a divider in the lower and higher ranges of the range and, in many cases, made it possible not to switch to a lower gear in the main gearbox.
Numbers will help you more clearly assess changes in the behavior of the car. To do this, you need to create a table of speeds for the MAZ-54329 with a final drive ratio of 7.14 and the original YaMZ-236 gearbox on ID-304 tires, with a statistical radius of 0.526 m.
As can be seen from the table, the maximum speed on MAZ is 89.07 km/h. Due to the small number of gears, the speed range is very narrow.
For comparison, let’s calculate the speed table for a modernized MAZ vehicle, which has a rear axle with a gear ratio of 4.88 and tires with a dimension of 295/80-22.5, a statistical radius of 0.491 m.
The maximum speed immediately increased sharply to a mind-blowing value and is now 147.05 km/h. The speeds are straight car, but the engine has 160 kg/m of torque.
If we take the MAZ before the modification, then its speed from 1,000 revolutions to 1,700 crankshaft revolutions in 5th gear was in the range from 40 to 72 km/h. On a modernized car, the speed in the same speed range will already be from 58 to 100 km/h.
Thus, reworking the car significantly increased its agility. It should also be added that the long-stroke Renault Major engine copes much better with possible loads while driving, and the multi-speed gearbox allows you to work comfortably across the entire speed range. In the tables, the difference in technical data is visible to the naked eye.
The only trouble that appeared after re-equipping the car was low oil pressure in the engine. After analyzing the problem, we were able to find the cause.
A piece of sealant got under the pressure relief valve of the oil pump, which caused the low pressure. In general, the friend was completely satisfied with the alteration.
Author: Eduard Zalutsky
Buy a gearbox for Renault Magnum
In our company you can buy a gearbox for Renault Magnum at a price comparable to purchasing components in bulk. We work with disassembly items directly, without intentionally inflating the cost of products.
When purchasing a gearbox, our clients receive:
- • High-quality and serviceable unit with a guarantee.
- • The gearbox is supplied assembled, with factory settings.
- • All necessary official documents for the unit.
AVMEX-MOTORS imports all components to Russia legally. Each gearbox is checked in several stages by our specialists; we are not interested in sending faulty units to customers.
Delivery of the Renault B 18 gearbox is carried out either from stock in our warehouses in Russia, or imported to order from Europe. The waiting period will be no more than 10 days.
Knock in the gearbox. Repair of B18 Renault Premium gearbox.
Hello author and other chatters, I have this problem, I have an ISUZU ELF 4JB1 engine and the gearbox rattles, but when I press the clutch, the noise stops, what could it be? but before that I changed the clutch disc, there was no noise, it shifts both on the move and in first gear normally, it rumbles on the net, maybe the input shaft is screwed. I don’t know what to think, I’m afraid to climb into the box myself
Did the knock disappear when you pressed the clutch? Help, I’m going to see Renault Major on Saturday, I need to find out about the problems
Good afternoon. How does the box work after repair? And if possible, where can they be repaired, please tell me.
Hello. I came home from a flight an hour ago. I mean, I've been driving normally since then. Good Tatar services - rembat. There are (many) in Tatarstan, in Bashkiria (USP parking lot in Ufa). Maybe somewhere else - I don’t know. Here's an example: fermata.su/tochka/m7_13/
Author! This is my problem. I turn on the ignition, the display immediately shows 4th gear and I’m scratching my head. What could be the problem? Thanks in advance Box B9
Tell me how to remove the gear divider shift mechanism B18. The bolts were unscrewed from the top and something was holding it from the bottom, like a rod.
the author of how to remove the box does not allow the release to come out
The latch is mentioned in the article. Link in video description.
To push such a car you need to TURN or push the WHEEL. you need to apply force to the wheel.
Where is the reverse sensor located on such a gearbox?
The author can tell me how to replace 18 with zf 16? and what is needed to replace it?
You can replace it, but there are a number of nuances. 1 flywheel bearing 2 clutch disc 3 pg 4 zf cardan 10 cm shorter than B18
+Evgeny Olegovich, I can’t give you any advice. I'm not a repairman. I showed only a special case that happened to my box..
It may be a useful video, but it’s impossible to watch with this music.
+Alexey Gapanyuk, yes, perhaps I got carried away with the heavy music..
Hello colleague with the receiver, everything worked out, the air stopped catching. Now I got to the clutch, I don’t understand how to remove the release lever, you can’t tell me.
@Maxim Guryev Ah, that’s it. Well, yes, without a hole it’s like death.. In general, I pressed the finger on which the fork was on down, screwing in the bolt. Or something like that. Something vaguely reflects this process in my head now. But the bolt needs a hardness of at least 8.8. I remember this because 1 broke off in the process. I'll be happy to watch the video.
@BUTAMUHbI4ru I was not interested in the pin; I unfastened it. I moved the box and replaced the clutch disc, but there was a problem with removing the release lever from the input shaft. In short, the B18 box there has a release lever, apparently, as I understand it, it is removed with the clutch fork. But since I removed the box without a hole and I have a 10-ton truck, you understand that it’s not very convenient to knock out the fork mounting pin from the bottom, especially since it’s stuck quite well and there’s no normal impact. Using a grinder, a sledgehammer and some mother, I carefully pulled out the old one in parts, and the new one was slightly modified with a knife and I managed to fit it in without removing the fork, I'll take a video tomorrow and you'll see for yourself.
Hello! Thank you for your answer! Otherwise, everyone usually forgets... If the gearbox is B18, then you need to unfasten the pin there first through the small hatch at the bottom. This pin fastens the release to the petals. And by the way, even after unfastening it, it may be difficult to remove it if this pin is boiled (rusted). She just won't go away. In any case, you need to unfasten it, and then everything depends on the effort.
Thank you for answering, but 1) sometimes it freezes to the dehumidifier 2) There are practically no leaks, I thought about it, maybe there are somewhere, but you can’t hear them and the air leaves within 4 hours. Yes, and the air does not bleed normally often. So I’m thinking of doing this, putting another receiver in front of the dryer at the bottom, welding a tap to drain the water just above the air inlet and at the top the outlet to the dryer to make a kind of cooler. Will it help or not, what do you think? I saw this one on Ivek.
@Maxim Guryev Well, if not all are new, then there is another option: the coil is clogged, so the air does not have time to cool before the compressor and drives condensate there, which freezes in front of the compressor. It is clear that the coil will cost an enormous amount of money, so you just need to remove it (like all the other tubes that have not been replaced), burn it and tap it so that all the slag spills out. As for the additional receiver, let's wait for the results. Good luck with the experiment.
@BUTAMUHbI4ru 1) Of course, not all of the tubes are new, because you have to order them from the Officials and there are price tags on them, mother, don’t worry. For example, the small one closest to the compressor costs 3000 rubles. The new ones closest to the compressor. But the old ones don’t sniffle anywhere. Today I bought a KAMAZ receiver, I’ll write how I do it.
1) Are all the pipes from the compressor to the dryer new? And the coil? More precisely, a spiral. 2) I think why not try it. Quite a suitable option if there are no others. And I will be glad to hear about the results. It will be useful for everyone.
Greetings, colleague, I have the same Renault locomotive, only a 340-horsepower locomotive, I have this problem. The air begins to freeze and begins to grab before the moisture separator, then after. It drives a lot of moisture, changed the compressor and the moisture separator and the tubes, the disease did not go away. So I decided to ask, maybe one head ok much better.
Hello, Maxim. I know that constant air leaks in the system (no matter where, even from the pillows, even from fittings, even from any taps) lead to abnormal operation of the compressor (constantly pumping) and the moisture separator (constantly releasing air). The latter may be the reason for the formation of condensation in the system. And moreover, most often this is why it appears, because in this mode the dehumidifier filter becomes clogged immediately and then stops filtering moisture. Solution: 1) change the dryer filter VERY often; 2) eliminate, if possible, all air leaks (or at least the main ones).
salam BUTAMUHbl4. mne nado uznat where zapchasti kupil or zakazal? day number svoi or pozvoni mne +996557190887
Hello. Available to order from ANY company that deals with spare parts for foreign trucks.
Tell me how reliable is the Renault Premium car itself? What are the + and - of this car. I'm just looking at this model.
I have an old Renault. Not DCi, but a simple “tractor”. If you are looking closely at this one, then I will say that the car is unpretentious. And its reliability and advantage lies precisely in the fact that it is simple. Of the minuses on mine: there are no locks or any anti-skid systems, due to the fact that I have a low-frame version limited in series. He did not imagine driving through the Ural Mountains in winter in icy conditions and loading/unloading in some roadless villages, but here in the Russian Federation anything can happen. From global affairs: I went through the equipment and the box (as you understood from the video). For spare parts: prices are generally average. Maybe sometimes a little above average, relative to other cars. Overall satisfied.
