Chainsaws "Ural" - pros, cons, setup, repair, review of models

Description of the Ural brand

The Ural chainsaw is a tool manufactured at a machine-building plant located in the city of Perm. The manufacturer of these chainsaws is Uralmash, Uralstal. The first saw was produced by the plant in 1935; during the life of the plant, more than 15 million chainsaws were produced.

This saw was developed for a specific purpose - as a universal construction tool, belonging to the class of professional saws for felling trees. Currently, both professional saws and household chainsaws and electric saws from the manufacturer Uralmash and Uralstal are popular. Experts say that “Ural” is a kind of modification of the well-known Soviet “Friendship”.

Ural chainsaws were used in forestry enterprises and logging industries, while Druzhba was used more in the household segment. Modern times show that the trend has continued; Ural chainsaws and electric saws are often used in the construction of bathhouses, wooden houses, harvesting beams and cutting boards, logs, and for preparing firewood for the winter.

Chainsaw Ural 2T

Key Operating Principles

The chainsaw is always held with both hands, tightly gripping the handle with all fingers (the thumb of the left hand should be located under the front handle). The saw should be placed closer to the body - this way the arm muscles will tire less (there is no need to be afraid of the proximity of the saw). In addition, in this position it will be easier to maintain balance and maintain full control over the process.

Your legs should be spread wide, with your knees bent for stability, but your back should be kept straight. If the mechanic needs to change position, he must first turn off the engine by activating the brake. If you need to move the chainsaw over a considerable distance, it is recommended to cover the tire with a casing.

It is better to learn to use a chainsaw on horizontal, not too thick logs at first. Once you feel confident and strong in your hands, you can learn to fell trees. To cut logs or beams straight, you need to make marks with a pencil and then gradually move along these marks. It’s good if you have the opportunity to watch how experienced sawyers work.

Preparation stage

Before cutting down a tree, you should make sure that surrounding objects (railway rails, buildings, power lines, highways, etc.) will not be damaged as a result of the falling trunk. There should be nothing unnecessary within a distance of two lengths of the tree being cut in any direction. In addition, if the place is crowded, then it is necessary to use warning signs - this is a must.

Pay attention to the following points:

• whether the tree grows straight or not;
• is there a slope of the soil;
• what is the strength of the wind and in which direction does it blow.

This ultimately determines in which direction the trunk will fall. You need to be especially careful with rotten, dry wood. It may behave unpredictably for the lumberjack and may not fall as planned. A damaged tree can be identified by external signs (dry branches, damaged trunk). Experienced fellers determine the quality of wood by tapping the trunk - a healthy tree “rings”, while a sick tree sounds dull or inaudible.

The ground around the tree must be cleared of bushes and other growth - this is another important preparatory action. It is necessary to remove everything that could impede the safe movement of the master with the chainsaw during the felling process.

How to saw

The sawing procedure itself usually goes like this. The lumberjack stands to the right of the trunk and makes a guide cut on the natural slope side at a 45-degree angle to a depth equal to about a quarter of the tree's diameter. This undercut should be as low as possible - this will make it easier to fell the trunk (and the stump will not be too high). It is also worth keeping in mind that the undercut seems to indicate in which direction the tree will subsequently fall to the ground.

A horizontal cut is then made on the opposite side of the tree—the main felling cut. There should be some small distance between it and the inclined undercut - this gap is needed so that the tree does not collapse prematurely.

During the work, it is necessary to monitor where the trunk is tilting in order to have time to react if something goes wrong. When the tree begins to fall, you need to quickly remove the chainsaw from the cut, turn off the engine and leave the dangerous place.

If, having caught on another trunk during felling, the tree does not fall completely, then professional help will be required. Leaving it unattended, as well as trying to correct the situation on your own, is prohibited.

There are times when a chainsaw bar gets stuck in the trunk. There is no need to panic and suddenly pull it out, especially if the tool is in working condition. First of all, you need to stop the engine. And then you should manually tilt the barrel little by little until the chainsaw slips out.

Ural chainsaw device

Ural gas-powered tools differ from their market analogues created in the post-Soviet countries by improved balancing, thoughtful ergonomics and lightweight design. This simplifies the operation of Ural models, both in easily accessible places and when working in confined spaces.

The Ural brand chainsaws are based on a powerful gasoline 2-stroke high-quality 1-cylinder engine, equipped with a cylinder with fully chrome-plated internal walls, a reinforced forged piston and a large fuel tank with a wide neck. The starter of the Ural branded model is manual. It has easy access for spring replacement and dust removal.

For the continuous connection of the built-in engine and the saw parts, the basic device of the Ural chainsaw includes a high-quality clutch, which is characterized by its unpretentiousness in regular maintenance and high repairability.

The manufacturer has previously included in each Ural model a durable saw set, which includes a metal bar and chain. To lubricate the chain, the power tool is equipped with an unregulated oil pump, which receives lubricant from a separate oil reservoir. The model's tire is equipped with several self-cleaning grooves through which oil is supplied to the chain and distributed along its entire length.

The answer to a popular question about starting a chainsaw

You can often find questions on the Internet about how to start a chainsaw without a starter. The answer is simple. It is impossible to start a chainsaw without a starter. Manufacturers do not provide any alternative starting methods because even if you remove it and start the dust in a certain way, it will not work due to a problem in the cooling system. It has a volute that transfers the flow of cold air from the flywheel impeller to the cylinder.

If you remove it, the engine will overheat and most likely seize.

Ignition adjustment: video

The process of checking the correctly set ignition on Ural chainsaws is quite simple. Especially if you strictly follow this algorithm:

1. The Ural saw engine starts and warms up for some time.
2. The owner of the tool determines the most persistent turns of the tire, and then reduces the engine speed.
3. The next step is to pull the starter. Moreover, this must be done as sharply as possible.

If the engine accelerates sharply, it means that the ignition system is set correctly. If this does not happen, in this video you can see the entire setup process.

The carburetor is an important element of any chainsaw, including the Ural 2 Electron. In many respects, due to correct settings, the life of the engine and the efficiency of the chain saw as a whole depend.

Briefly about the launcher

The chainsaw is powered by an internal combustion engine. This is a simple device, the design of which does not have any special bells and whistles. Usually it works properly even in difficult conditions.

Functioning is ensured by structural elements:

• Carburetor engine (see carburetor adjustment).
• Centrifugal type clutches.
• The ignition system in almost all devices is contactless.
• A carburetor that adds air to the fuel mixture.
• Fuel system. Its standard device consists of a hose, filter and gas tank, but sometimes it has additional parts.
• Starter.
• Tire.
• Chain (see chain oil).
• Chain tensioning mechanism and brake (see how to sharpen a chain).

How to start a chainsaw correctly: instructions

Let's look at the main steps that need to be followed in order to properly start a Stihl chainsaw.

• Before starting, the chain brake must be activated. It is activated by pressing it forward (as shown in the photo).
• Remove the protective cover from the tire.
• If the model has a decompression valve, it should be set to the on position, which will make it easier to start the tool’s motor.

• Press the fuel pump to reduce the number of pumps and make starting easier.
• The combination lever must be turned on in cold start mode. To do this, you need to lock the gas lever and press the combination lever all the way down.
• Before starting the system, it is necessary to ensure a level surface. In this case, the cutting part must be at a distance from the ground, otherwise it will become dull when starting.
• Hold the tool with both hands and keep it on the ground. The left hand should be on the chainsaw handle, and the right hand should be on the starting cable. Secure the tool with your right foot by stepping on the rear handle.

• Gently pull the starter rope with your right hand until you feel strong resistance. Using force, pull the starting rope several times, starting the engine briefly. In this case, to avoid abrasion, it is recommended to pull the cable upwards from the body.
• After a short start, the engine stalls. Now move the combination lever up one click. The lever should take the half-throttle position.

• Pull the starter cord again to start the chainsaw engine.
• When the engine is started by briefly pressing your finger, operate the throttle lever. The combination lever will automatically return to idle speed.
• Without touching the gas lever, move the chainsaw.
• Pull the handle towards you to release the chain brake. The position of the left hand remains unchanged, the hand is on the handle. The chain will be unlocked after the appropriate click.

You can see a detailed description on how to start a chainsaw correctly in the video. Using these detailed instructions, you can gain skills on how to start a chainsaw.

What to do if the chainsaw starts?

But what should you do if all the steps specified in the operating instructions have been followed, but the chainsaw still won’t start? Regardless of the manufacturer of the chainsaw - Stihl, Husqvarna, Partner, Ural, Druzhba - a number of general activities can be identified for the tool factory.

Below are practical tips from professionals that have been tested in practice and have proven effectiveness:

• Don't be nervous and don't try to adjust the chainsaw's carburetor.
• Set the instrument aside and let it rest. The reason may simply be that the candles are flooded. Give them a chance to dry.
• Take the instruction manual. Try to start the saw again. There is no need to turn on the saw brake.
• If this does not help, try removing the cover from the chainsaw body and removing the air filter. This way you can check the cleanliness of the filter and at the same time make the starting process easier.
• Replace the spark plugs. If it is not possible to install new spark plugs, you can use the old ones by first removing and calcining them.
• If a strange, pungent odor appears, it means that excess fuel has entered the chainsaw engine. To correct this situation, you need to remove the spark plug and, turning the saw over with the hole down, drain the excess. Without returning the saw to its normal position, sharply pull the starter several times. This way you will ensure that combustion products leave the chamber. The spark plug must be wiped dry and calcined, and then screwed back in without installing the filter.
• It is necessary to check the surface of the piston for the presence of fuel. If you unscrew the spark plug and notice through the hole that it is dry inside, you need to inject some fuel into the chamber using a syringe. The cause of problems in this case may be a blockage that interferes with the supply of fuel to the engine. If the engine can be started with a small amount of fuel, then the thrust will clear the blockage and the problem will be solved.
• The last two actions can be performed only if the candle is dry.
• Check the starter for serviceability. It is impossible to start a chainsaw without a starter.
• Check the ignition unit for spark.
• Try carefully removing the tool's muffler and starting it without it.

Each saw has its own manufacturing characteristics. You can watch the video on how to start a Husqvarna chainsaw. Follow the instructions carefully and the saw will serve you for a long time.

Method for starting a hot engine and an engine equipped with a decompression system.

A hot engine does not need to enrich the fuel mixture with air, so start the saw without closing the air damper. Simply turn on the ignition and move the starter, after which a working chainsaw should start.

Large-volume engines have fairly severe compression, which makes cranking extremely difficult. To reduce the effort required to start a saw of large volume and power, manufacturers use special decompression valves, when pressed, the compression is noticeably reduced and the engine turns over more easily.

Valves may have different appearances, so read the instructions for the tool in advance.

Thus, before any kind of starting, be it hot or cold, it is necessary to press this valve, designed to reduce resistance, and thereby increase the service life of the starting device.

article, you can summarize the key points of starting a chainsaw. First, you need to start it with maximum safety. Second, any deviations from the launch algorithm are not allowed. And finally, you can’t start a chainsaw without a starter! Take the information from the article into account and use your tool correctly.

Description and characteristics of the Ural 2 Electron chainsaw

The company has introduced various improvements to the design of the chain saw.
The improved modification was called a little differently. The saw is still used by logging employees and private owners. The reliable operation of the tool is evidenced by an advertisement for the sale of a saw manufactured in 1997. The 2T Electron gasoline saw, like its predecessor the Druzhba saw, is designed for use in a wide variety of climatic conditions, with extreme loads, and in hard-to-reach areas. As a result, detailed step-by-step documentation has been developed for self-repair and adjustment of mechanisms in the field.

The tool has a vibration reduction system. But due to the separate component layout, it exceeds the standards for safe operation. Therefore, operation of the chainsaw can only continue for 1.5 hours a day. This measure will prevent the occurrence of occupational diseases associated with harmful work conditions.

This chainsaw contains one special characteristic that forces you to come to terms with shortcomings in the mechanisms. It allows you to cut both lengthwise and crosswise. Also a plus is reliability, the design of the handles is high, making it possible not to bend over, but to work at full height.

However, experts note the following disadvantages against the background of foreign professional instruments:

• the engine operates with increased production of exhaust gases, the employee is forced to work in gas-filled conditions;
• the mixture contains more oil than saws imported from other countries;
• saw service requires certain skills and dexterity;
• increased fuel costs;
• no chain brake.

And that’s not all, in which these samples are inferior to progressive imported saws. Its low cost has maintained sales. However, businessmen prefer foreign equipment. Production of the Ural 2 T Electron chainsaw ended in 2013. Previously produced saws are available for sale.

Carburetor settings

Debugging of the carburetor system will definitely be necessary to switch from the run-in mode to regular fuel. This is achieved by adjusting the state of the jets. There are three adjustment 3 screws:

• low speed adjustment;
• high speed adjustment;
• idle speed adjustment.

When the screws rotate, the position of the throttle valve changes in the fuel-oxygen ratio. But at the same time, this effect changes the power and speed of rotation of the chain. When adjusting with a tachometer, the existing number of revolutions of the Ural 2 Electron chainsaw is checked for compliance with the operating instructions. It clearly looks like this: with a poor mixture we hear a squeal, with a rich mixture we see smoke from the muffler.

The engine system is designed to run on AI-72 gasoline, the production of which has been discontinued. 92nd gasoline is used.

Technical characteristics of the Ural chainsaw

The basis of the chainsaw was a powerful and reliable motor. The Perm plant did a good job creating an excellent model. The declared power was 5 horses or 3.68 kW, the gasoline engine had 1 cylinder and operated in two-stroke mode. Such characteristics made it possible to consider the chainsaw a professional device, suitable even for daily workload.

The imperative task was to make the engine also economical, so the Ural received a low fuel consumption of 632 grams per 1 kW. The cylinder has a diameter of 55 mm and a volume of 94 cm3, a good indicator even for the model of previous years. As a result, the total weight of the device was 11.7 kg, the dimensions are not small, but quite comfortable for long-term use.

With the Ural chainsaw, malfunctions and repairs occur extremely rarely; this is characterized by the high quality of all components and a reliable motor. Ideal for long-term work, because it has a tank with a capacity of 2 liters, the oil tank has been increased to 0.4 liters.

Starting Shtil 180

In order to start the Shtil 180 chainsaw when cold, you must follow the algorithm specified by the manufacturer in the instructions for the Shtil 180 chainsaw, namely:

1. Turn on the ignition and set the engine control lever to the lowest position (in this position, the air damper of the Stihl 180 carburetor blocks the access of air from the air filter, and the throttle is fully open, thus enriching the fuel mixture);
2. Pull the starter handle several times until the first flash passes (the flash indicates that the fuel mixture has entered the cylinder and the saw is ready to start);
3. Set the control lever one position up from fully lowered (in this position the air damper opens and the throttle remains in the same position as before);
4. Pull the starter and start. The saw will start and operate at higher speeds, due to the fact that the throttle valve is maximally open. To set the throttle to idle mode, you need to press the gas trigger and immediately release it, the tool will immediately normalize the speed.

The Stihl MS 180 chainsaw does not come standard with any additional devices that can make starting easier.

Below you can see how to start a calm 180. The video reflects in detail all the main points, and the author’s comments allow you to understand the whole process down to the smallest detail.

Common faults and repairs of the Ural chainsaw

In general, the domestic instrument has proven to be quite reliable and easy to maintain. However, it is also susceptible to breakdowns, which are mainly due to improper use of the saw.

Many beginners often do not know how to start a Ural chainsaw. This is quite easy to do. To do this, follow the specified algorithm:

1. fill in fuel and oil to lubricate the chain, then press the primer several times to pump gasoline;
2. then move the throttle lever to the closed position and pull the starter cable;
3. after the characteristic sound appears, switch the throttle lever to the middle position;
4. Start the chainsaw again and let it run for about 15 seconds. After this, move the throttle lever to the very bottom and press the gas lever to release the throttle. Then you can continue working with the chainsaw;
5. If, after all the procedures performed, the saw heats up and stalls, then you need to press the primer several more times to pump up the fuel.

Next, you need to figure out how to properly break in a new Ural chainsaw? To do this, the large tank of the unit is filled with gasoline mixed with oil, and lubricant is poured into a separate tank for oil. After this, the chainsaw should be started and run for at least 10 minutes. Then you need to turn off the engine and repeat the procedure. It should take one full tank of fuel to fully break in the tool.

If you ignore the break-in procedure, you will notice that your saw starts and stalls immediately after starting - the reason for this lies in the engine and carburetor that are not prepared for operation. This is precisely why the saw manufacturer advises running it in.

Often saw owners are faced with a problem in which they hear a ringing knock from the engine at idle - in this case, the Ural chainsaw can be repaired quite simply. To do this, you need to inspect the cylinder - it was probably damaged during a reverse impact. The malfunction can be eliminated by aligning the cylinder walls. If it cannot be repaired and the saw does not start, you will have to buy a new cylinder.

Next you need to learn how to adjust the carburetor on a Ural chainsaw? To do this, you need to start the tool and turn the screw responsible for the idle operation of the saw. Turning the screw clockwise will increase the engine speed, and counterclockwise will decrease it. The Ural chainsaw carburetor should be adjusted after every 25 fuel tanks used.

If during cleaning you notice that there is no spark, then the adjustment procedure must be performed at the moment a breakdown is detected. The next important question is how to set the ignition on the Ural chainsaw. To do this you need to act in this order:

1. Start the engine and warm it up at low speeds;
2. Set the most stable turns of the tire without the chain moving along it;
3. After this, set the minimum speed;
4. Press the gas lever sharply. If the engine speed instantly increases, it means the ignition is set correctly.

A very common question for beginners is whether a Ural chainsaw can be filled with 92 gasoline? The manufacturer recommends using 80-grade gasoline, so AI-92 fuel is not suitable for operating the tool. Because of this, the question of how to convert a Ural saw to 92 gasoline is becoming one of the most asked. To solve this problem, the chainsaw will need to be equipped with new valves and a piston. You can purchase them at any auto parts store. After replacement, you can confidently fill in 92nd fuel without worrying about premature engine wear.

What to do if the chainsaw does not start?

There are many factors why a chainsaw will not start if the starting technology is followed. The most common causes and ways to eliminate them:

• there is no spark on the spark plug - replacement or drying is required if water gets in;
• problem with the supply of gasoline to the filter - blowing out the fuel hose or filter, replacing;
• If the fuel or air filter is clogged, proper cleaning is required.

If these simple tips do not help, you need a full diagnosis of the problems. It is recommended to take the chainsaw to a service center, where they can check the compression of the cylinder and crankcase, as well as the operation of the carburetor.

Proper starting of the chainsaw ensures stable and reliable operation of this tool. When starting, before starting sawing, you should properly prepare and fill the fuel mixture and adjust the main structural elements

It is important to take into account weather conditions, as well as the features of a particular model

Technical characteristics of the Ural tool

A qualitative indicator of the Ural brand is a powerful and economical two-stroke gasoline engine. Ease of use and lightweight design make it indispensable in such work as building a wooden house, sawmill, logging, and household preparations for the local area. Let's look at the characteristics of the Ural chainsaw with a detailed description of the advantages of the tool.

Gas engine

Designed for professional purposes, the Ural 2 Electron chainsaw has the following engine characteristics:

• Power 5 l. With.
• Single cylinder
• Piston diameter - 5.5 cm, cylinder volume - 109 cubic meters. cm.
• Push-pull
• Gasoline consumption at maximum power is 0.63 liters, at working power – 0.47 liters.
• The crankshaft operating cycle frequency is 2600 rpm.

The two-stroke engine is powerful and reliable enough to quickly chop wood within 11 cubic meters. in a minute.

Cylinder

To improve wear resistance, the aluminum cylinder is coated with a silicon-nickel alloy called Nicosil. Cylinder volume 109 cc. cm provides sufficient power for a chainsaw. The cylinder has an inlet channel for the gasoline-gas mixture, exhaust channels and purge channels. The execution of certain proportions of the sizes of the exhaust and purge holes ensures high-quality ventilation of the cylinder cavity from exhaust gases.

Gas tank

The volume of the fuel tank is 1.6 l, and for oil - 0.24 l.

To increase the durability of the engine, you should use the grades of gasoline specified by the manufacturer in the passport. In a two-stroke engine, it is worth using special grades of oils that combine well with gasoline and do not leave a large sediment when burned in the chamber.

The gas tank is filled with a mixture of AI-72 gasoline and M-8B engine oil. The lubricant tank is filled with oil in summer, and in winter - with the addition of gasoline in a ratio of 3/1.

Carburetor

A carburetor is necessary to create an air-fuel mixture of a adjusted proportion, entering the cylinder in certain doses. The tool uses a modification of the KMP-100U carburetor. It must be adjusted at the factory, but you can independently adjust the unit in various operating modes to obtain maximum engine efficiency.

Before first use, it is recommended to keep the tool for several hours with a tank filled with fuel to saturate the carburetor membrane.

Bar length and chain

The length of the working surface of the saw is 46 cm. A cutting chain is placed on it, which requires periodic sharpening and tension.

Advice: during prolonged downtime of the tool, it is better to remove the cutting chain, and it is more convenient to sharpen it on a chain put on the saw.

The weight of the assembled chainsaw is about 12 kg.

Ease of use

The Ural 2 Electron chainsaw is equipped with high, comfortable handles that allow you to work in an extended position and under thick snow cover. The tool frame and holder are equipped with vibration-reducing hinges and spring units for safe operator operation. The unit maintains operating condition in the range of high and low temperatures. High engine power speeds up the work process.

What fuel should I use for my chainsaw?

Choosing the right fuel is an important and significant issue. The only correct approach to solving it is to carefully study the user manual, which indicates the type and brand of fuel, the mixing proportions of gasoline and oil, and also reflects all the features of this tool. Modern standards require the use of high-octane refined fuel and special types of motor oil.

Gasoline selection

Many people are interested in what gasoline a chainsaw works best with. Most models require clean, high-quality fuel with an octane rating of no higher than 90. Sometimes online there are recommendations to mix 92 or 93 gasoline with 95 to increase its efficiency. This should not be done under any circumstances, since higher octane brands are often counterfeited, and no one will dilute the A92 or AI92 brands.

Therefore, when choosing what kind of gasoline to pour into a chainsaw in the domestic market, it is recommended to use just such fuel. It is necessary to ensure that gasoline is sufficiently fresh, since during long-term storage it begins to release resins and other elements that impair quality. Manufacturers recommend using:

• Chainsaw Stihl (Stihl) 180 - it is better to fill with gasoline grade A90 and higher;
• Shtil 250 - runs on gasoline with an octane rating of at least 90. Do not use fuel with an ethanol content exceeding 10%;
• Partner - you must use only unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of at least 90;
• Husqvarna - gasoline with an octane number of at least 90; it is allowed to use pure fuel or with the addition of tetraethyl lead. Engines with a catalyst require the use of a fuel-oil mixture of unleaded gasoline.

As a rule, owners of such tools use AI92 gasoline, which fully meets the manufacturers’ requirements. However, for most domestic chainsaws A72 or A80 gasoline is quite suitable. It is also necessary to keep in mind that failure of the chainsaw due to the use of low-quality fuel is not a warranty case.

Oil selection

Figure 2 – Chainsaw oils

A chainsaw uses two types of oil - motor oil and chain oil (adhesive oil). They should not be confused because the tasks they perform are different from each other. Any gear oil can be used to lubricate the chain, although manufacturers always recommend using materials of the same name. The requirements for motor oil are stricter. All manufacturers are unanimous on this issue - you should use oil from the same company that manufactured the saw.

Two-stroke engines do not have a lubrication system, which is replaced by the presence of some material in the fuel. The carburetor injects fuel and oil mist, which simultaneously lubricates all parts. After this, the residues are burned in the cylinder. If there are no specific instructions in the instructions, any two-stroke oil can be used.

For different tool models, manufacturers recommend:

• for chainsaw Shtil 180 - the best option is STIHL HP, HP SUPER or HP ULTRA oil;
• Calm 250 - correctly use STIHL HP, HP SUPER or HP ULTRA oil; STIHL HP ULTRA oil demonstrates the greatest efficiency;
• Partner - any two-stroke oil. It is forbidden to use automobile or marine oil, this will lead to engine failure;
• Husqvarna - the manufacturer recommends using HUSQVARNA two-stroke oil. Do not use oil for four-stroke engines or two-stroke water-cooled engines.

Malfunctions and repairs of the Ural 2 Electron chainsaw

I purchased a Ural 2 Electron chainsaw. The instruction manual for this tool has been lost. Can anyone describe the procedure for adjusting the idle speed, initial throttle position?

In my tool I adjust the idle speed by changing the length of the throttle cable. Those. For rough adjustment, I unscrew the screw that clamps the cable and pull it out or loosen it with my hands; for fine adjustment there is a stop screw near the gas handle.

I am repairing a Ural 2T Electron chainsaw (1988). I bought a magneto, installed it - it won’t start, it sneezes and jerks my hand like that (it gives it in the direction opposite to the way the starter starts). Well, I think the ignition timing needs to be adjusted. The results are that sometimes he pulls his hand, sometimes later. I have a question. How does it start anyway? Or am I doing something wrong?

There was once a similar case in my practice. Only when the engine gave back - pop and smoke poured out from all sides (from the carburetor, and from under the crankcase too). Although it sometimes started. It turned out that the pin on the piston, which keeps the ring from turning, had weakened, and since it is located opposite the bypass window, it made a groove somewhere around 6-8 mm long in this window. Yes, plus a modified piston, as a result the bypass window opened before the exhaust window. Examine the inside of the cylinder, maybe that's the problem. Insert a sheet of thick paper there (along the height of the cylinder) and trace all the windows with a piece of pencil - you will get a scan of the cylinder, then compare it with the piston. That’s exactly how I defined the problem back then. And look again: isn’t there much play in the piston in the connecting rod? How do the rings feel there (especially the top one)? And measure the compression just in case.

I disassembled the Ural 2 piston chainsaw, examined the cylinder - all the holes have smooth contours, without any grooves. There is not even any output as such, which is very strange, since the saw worked quite a lot. The piston is also normal, the rings are not coked, I compared the rings with the new ones - there are no differences in diameter, the only thing is that the old rings are run-in (smooth). The piston on the crankshaft connecting rod does not play, the pins that lock the rings are also in good condition (do not wobble). The only thing that surprised me was that the pins are directed towards the carburetor of the saw, and not towards the muffler, but after reading the book I realized that this is how it should be, and it is clear that no one removed the piston or turned it over. In other matters, the words were confirmed that he did not climb into the piston. I started looking for the reason in the magneto, I didn’t buy a new one, because I thought that I would probably buy an identical one (they sell it only in one store). I bored out the grooves along which it turns in the crankcase, the result was that at the most extreme position of the magneto in one direction the same thing happened (recoil), and at the other extreme position, every other time there was either a recoil or the effect of being ready to start. That is, probably still due to the fact that it does not pass the dead center. I looked to see if it was possible to bore the groove, but it turned out that it was impossible - there was no place for attaching the coils. I don’t know what to do now, just turn it a little more, but how, you can’t rearrange the pins, they are screwed into the crankcase on such “islands”. It can resharpen the keyway on the flywheel, but for this you need at least a broaching machine; a file will probably turn out clumsily. Or look for a 100% working magneto.

Tool launch features

To run the tool, several processes need to happen simultaneously:

• the fuel mixture must be supplied under the engine piston;
• it should shrink as much as possible;
• At this point, a spark must be supplied to ignite and start.

Each of these processes occurs the moment you pull the starter handle. When using a new chainsaw, you need to remember to break it in.

However, in reality everything is not so simple. The fuel for starting the tool in hot and cold engine modes must differ in the quality of the air mixture. So, a hot engine can operate with a normal air level, which will ensure its stable operation and will maintain normal idle speed. However, a similar amount of air will be enough to drive a cold engine. Before starting the chainsaw, the starter will need to be pulled about 10 times and possibly more.

To reduce the amount of air and increase the fuel supply in the chainsaw carburetor, a special damper is installed, which is responsible for adjusting the amount of air when starting the engine. Starting the engine with a saw will be faster, so the duration of operation of the starter and the saw as a whole will be increased.

It is very dangerous to start the saw at a refueling site.

Brief overview of the Ural 2T Electron chainsaw

The purpose of this model is purely professional: work in extreme conditions at any temperature (from +40 to -40), humidity, with heavy loads. The chainsaw easily coped with giant trunks of hardwood trees (felling, bucking). It was actively used at logging enterprises, and later - in the construction of log houses, buildings made of timber, etc. The tool performed longitudinal and transverse cuts of wood of various species.

The Ural 2T Electron chain saw weighed 11.7 kg. The power of the single-cylinder two-stroke engine was 5.5 horsepower. The convenient layout of the main components of the chainsaw, high arched handles and the saw part rotating 90 degrees allowed the chainsaw operator to cut in a straight position without tilting his back. A special felling hydraulic wedge pushed the cut trunk in a given direction, increasing the safety of the chainsaw operator.

If the previous Ural 2T model did not have automatic chain lubrication, then the 2T Electron model chain was already forcibly lubricated. Oil 10 B40 was poured into the gearbox housing from where it was supplied to the chain.

Gasoline saw MP-5 Ural-2t Electron

For sawing wood, removable chains of the MI-10.26 U-16 “Strong” brand were used. These chains were sharpened directly on the tensioned bar with a special cylindrical file with a diameter of 5-6 mm. Sharpening was carried out after each use of the Ural 2T Electron chainsaw.

The chainsaw had vibration damping protection, which turned out to be insufficiently effective, so tree fellers could work with the tool no more than 1.5 hours a day, in order to avoid the occurrence of an occupational disease.

Another feature of this model is the absence of a brake system. To stop the power tool it was necessary to turn off the fuel valve. This had a negative impact on operator safety.

How to start the tool after a long period of inactivity?

After long-term storage, you may encounter some problems when starting the engine. The first thing you need to do is make sure that the equipment is in working order, that there is a spark, fuel, and that there are no broken wires.

If the saw is in good condition, it is started:

• turn the fuel tap to open;
• press the enrichment button, which will fill the carburetor with fuel;
• turn the lever and completely close the air damper;
• start the engine using the starter - press the gas handle, smoothly, without sudden jerks, pull the cord, turning the crankshaft.
• after the flammable mixture flares, open the air damper and continue starting the engine.

READ Is it possible to lubricate a chainsaw?

No spark on the Ural chainsaw

The unit often fails due to overheating and when the engine suddenly stops at high speeds. Therefore, it is strictly forbidden to turn off the chainsaw with the “Stop” button or by removing the spark plug cap at high speeds.

They begin to look for the reason for the lack of spark from the simplest:

• Replace the spark plug with a guaranteed good one.
• Change the spark plug wire.

Spark plug wires for chainsaw Ural 2t Electron

If they are not the reason, replace the entire electronic ignition unit.

• Unscrew the candle.
• The thread or hex key is connected to ground by pressing it to the cylinder with a hand wearing a dielectric glove or with pliers with an insulated handle.
• Pull the starter and check for a spark.

It is important to know that electronic ignition produces a high-temperature, yellow spark that is barely visible in sunlight. The spark from the mechanical breaker is large, bright blue and cooler. Therefore, a small spark on electronics, almost invisible in the light, is normal. This should not be misleading to former owners of chainsaws with a mechanical breaker.

Non-contact ignition of a Ural 2t Electron chainsaw This is what a dismantled ignition without a flywheel looks like

Saw chain jammed

Poor lubrication can cause some or all of the chain links to become stuck. The gearbox or clutch may jam due to heavy blockage or mechanism failure. The internal combustion engine does not have enough power to turn the chain and it stalls. They try to reach it by hand, if it doesn’t reach out, they look for the reason.

Replacing the ratchet on a Ural chainsaw

Another reason for a chainsaw malfunction may be severe wear of the ratchet, which is installed on the flywheel bushing of the chainsaw's crankshaft. As a result of such a problem, it is not possible to start the chainsaw engine, since the starter ratchet does not engage the chainsaw ratchet. To do this, disassemble the deflector, remove the crankcase cover, then unscrew the ratchet and replace it with a new one.

Photo-6. Removing the deflector.

Photo-7. Removing the crankcase cover.

Photo-9.Replacing the ratchet.

Chainsaw gearbox Ural

If, while sawing a chainsaw, the gearbox makes a grinding noise or other extraneous sound, then it is necessary to disassemble and inspect it. It is quite possible that one of the two bevel gears of the gearbox has failed. The gearbox should be disassembled from the side of the saw chain drive sprocket.

Photo-10. Removing the drive sprocket. For more detailed information about the operating rules and methods of disassembling a chainsaw, download the instructions. DOWNLOAD

Photo-11. Dismantling the driven bevel gear.

Photo-12.Replacing the driven bevel gear.

If increased noise occurs when the chainsaw is operating, this may mean that the muffler has been damaged. In such cases, the muffler should be replaced.

Photo-13. Replacing the muffler.

Photo-14. Unscrewing the M5 screw of the muffler.

How to start a car without a starter

If the engine
is affectionately called the “heart of the car,” then
the starter
can safely be called the “right atrium.” When the starter fails, problems immediately arise with starting the engine. Sitting in the cockpit, you simply cannot do this. But there are several reliable methods to get out of this situation.

First, let's look at the reasons for the failure of the starter

. You may be able to fix some damage on site.

• The starter relay
  has failed ;
• The solenoid relay
  has failed ;
• The pendix is ​​worn out, that is, the gear rotates and the starter does not connect to the engine flywheel
  ;
• And finally, the worst thing is that the starter winding
  .

Let's move on directly to starting the engine with a non-working starter. There are actually few methods, but they work flawlessly.

The most common and easiest way

— start the car “from the pusher”. To do this, you will need volunteers in the form of sympathetic car enthusiasts (preferably strong guys with toned legs). The method is ingenious in its simplicity: turn on the ignition, engage first gear, a couple or three volunteers rest their hands on the trunk and begin to accelerate. At the thirtieth meter the engine will start, it all depends on the take-off speed of the pushers (the faster you push, the faster you will start the car). You can do without assistants if your health and strength allow. The algorithm is the same: ignition, first gear, get out of the car, rest your left hand on the front pillar, and hold the steering wheel with your right hand. Of course, this task is not an easy one, but in the absence of people there is nowhere to go;

Second way

- tug. Every novice and experienced motorist should have a tow rope in their trunk. We take it out, stop any car, hook the cable, get behind the wheel, turn on the ignition, first gear and wait. Be careful, when the car starts, it will certainly begin to accelerate. You need to immediately inform the tug driver that your iron horse has started working and there is no need to go further, and when it stops, do not forget to stop your car. Do not turn off the engine when you get out to unhook the cable unless you want to repeat the towing procedure again;

Third way

Suitable for front wheel drive vehicles only. You will need a jack. Raise the front wheel, turn on the ignition, engage third or fourth gear and begin to turn the raised wheel with your hands. Of course, the method is not the most convenient, but when pushing alone is not possible, it can help you out;

Well, the last way

, which is suitable only for owners of old models of passenger cars (mainly UAZ, Moskvich and Zhiguli). In those days, cars were equipped with special handles. With the ignition on and neutral, turn the handle. There is a danger that the handle will suddenly move in the opposite direction when the engine starts. Therefore, you should be careful.