How to disassemble a water pump on a KAMAZ. Kamaz pump repair

Hello everyone! I traveled on the last two flights myself, and since it’s cold at night now, I almost froze on these two flights)). Today I decided to sort this matter out and at the same time repair the pump. We drove around all summer with water in the radiator (((, so the whole system became rusty. I removed the heater radiator and poured a bottle of Domestos into it

and set it to cool, in the meantime I prepared a system for flushing the radiator, poured water into the tank and lowered the “Rucheyok” water pump into it, then hooked it up to the radiator, looped it in a circle and drove the water with Domestos for half an hour. The water became rusty (mother, don’t worry ), I've never seen such shit before!

Then I washed it with running water. Next, I drained the water from the Kamaz, poured a second bottle of Domestos into the coolant system, added water and also drove for about half an hour, drained everything, the water was also red with rust.

I flushed the system again three times, the last time the water was almost clean.

Then I took hold of the pump, as I wrote in the previous on-board article, it began to leak a little when cold. I took off the belt and twiddled the pulley and it was hanging loose ((. I repaired it in April of this year! It looks like the water is doing its nasty nasty thing. It’s good that, as always, there is something in stock)). I took out another pump, opened it, I checked it for integrity and put it back together, cleaning it a little from dirt and painting it silver.

I put it in place, filled it with water again to check, started it, drove it and drained the water again, the pump does not run! I put the heater radiator in place and screwed on an additional nozzle for the second radiator.

I’ve had it lying around for three years already, a friend picked it up, but I still can’t buy a second radiator)), now I’m thinking of buying it. They say that with a second radiator, the socks on my feet begin to melt)). I replaced all the hoses going to the stove, because they were very tired, the supply of which was stratified from the inside and did not allow coolant to pass through well, and the return one was full of cracks((. I went to the store, bought 5 red Antifreeze canisters of 5 kg each, and in liters there will be 20l.

I filled it up and it turned out to be not enough((, the store was already closed((, I had to go to the gas station and buy an expensive freezik there, also a 4-liter canister,

I filled it up, and again it won’t be enough ((, somewhere around 3 liters is not enough to the norm. I gave up on this matter, next time I’ll buy more and fill it up, because I got tired of changing clothes. Along the way, I replaced the burst knee of the air intake, the tires were bad, they changed them in the spring and again twenty-five ((.

At the end of all the procedures, I decided to wash the engine and its surroundings a little, Karcher is really already half-dead, he’s not pressing shit ((, he doused the whole thing with oil from the return line to soak off thick layers of dirt and then washed the whole thing off with a car wash. Then he wet the engine with car shampoo and washed it again , not everything came off ((due to a dead sink.

In the evening there was no more run for hay, with a trailer. The stove heats the Fire! True, it was +9 degrees outside. Good luck everyone!

Issue price: 2,000 ₽

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Comments 21

How did you install the single-cylinder compressor?

I bought such a motor in 2004, the beam was already under it, a friend of mine put a single-pot one on the old-style beam, drilled a hole in the compressor block for the oil supply and powered it from the high-pressure fuel pump. I’m not overjoyed now!)

Is there a photo or any more information?) Where is the approach from?

I just got back from a flight, I’m tired, I’ll try to take a photo later and report back.

I just got back from a flight, I’m tired, I’ll try to take a photo later and report back.

Have you changed it like this too?

no, I have a standard beam for one pot.

YES, this is the first time I’ve seen Domestos in such an application...)) I’ll have to try it too! And I hung the second radiator of the stove right before this, on elastic bands, laid something between the radiators along the edges... I went until January. Well, at -15, after an hour of work, I was driving in a T-shirt...

I think you can use all the products that are intended for septic tanks, but the name doesn’t really matter. About two years ago I tried to rinse with caustic soda, there was also a lot of rusty water, they use it in boiler rooms for washing heating pipes, I had a whole barrel, but it corroded her with this soda((.

I washed the radiator: with citric acid and Coca-Cola))) probably three times, but there was no dirt, even though I was using antifreeze!

I thought about acid, but then I settled on this product; at Toyota I also washed the OS with something for a septic tank, I don’t remember anymore (.

Today I bought a new copper radio operator, it will be hot in the car)) I’ll write in the blog soon!

I installed an autonomous system for myself, it runs on gas, but the cabin is always warm, it keeps a certain temperature, I’m very pleased with this thing))) The tires on the front end are very dangerous and worn out, isn’t it time to go back))?

Cooling system KamAZ 5511

The engine cooling system serves to maintain a certain temperature of the metal body of the motor. It is believed that normal heating should not exceed 100 o C, i.e. the boiling point of water. When calculating and adjusting the thermal clearances of valves, it is precisely this heating that is taken into account. An increase or decrease in temperature entails an expansion or narrowing of the exhaust gas outlets and affects the overall power. Excessive fuel consumption occurs. That is why, before starting operation, engines are always warmed up to a temperature of 90–95 o C.

Location of coolant circulation channels inside the engine

In addition to the water pump, the cooling system includes:

radiator located in the front of the car (for better airflow);

Coolant is cooled inside the radiator

The expansion tank serves for free circulation of coolant inside the cooling system

The hot coolant transfers heat into the passenger compartment using a radiator blown by a fan

The thermostat is responsible for maintaining the temperature at the same level

The system is closed and fully automatic. Manual control is installed only on the “stove” of the cabin: the driver can independently adjust the heating level inside the cabin.

The system is monitored using an engine temperature sensor located in the motor housing. The sensor readings are displayed on the temperature indicator located on the dashboard.

Thus, all elements that make up the cooling system operate in static mode.

The only exception is the water pump, which rotates continuously while the engine is running. It is for this reason that the probability of pump failure is higher than that of other elements of the cooling system.

Location of the water pump on KamAZ

The location of the water pump is determined by the drive mechanism. Rotation is transmitted to the pump pulley from the crankshaft using V-belts. In accordance with this, its location is the left front part of the cylinder block. The design feature is that the forced air fan is located on the fluid coupling, and not on the pump pulley itself.

The water pump is located in front of the engine, on the left - footnote No. 2

Water pump device

The KamAZ automobile pump consists of the following parts:

1. Pump drive pulley, rotating using V-belts. The pulleys are different in different KamAZ models. Therefore, you need to pay attention to how many belts the pulley rotates (1 or 2). Modern cars are equipped with a drive consisting of 2 belts. This increases the level of engine reliability.
2. A retaining ring that secures the drive to the impeller shaft. It operates on the principle of pinching a pulley in a certain position.
3. A support bearing consisting of two rows of roller bearings. The inner surface of the bearing is filled with a special indelible lubricant. You can renew the lubricant using an oil can - a syringe, filling the rubbing parts before squeezing out the used lubricant through a special hole.
4. Pump shaft: a steel rod on which the impeller is mounted.
5. Metal cast pump body.
6. End seal to prevent coolant leakage. It consists of a rubber seal, which is pressed by a washer to the pump body with a spring. Rotates with the shaft.
7. Impeller made of steel.

KamAZ 5511 water pump device

Water pump 740 50 1307010 (KAMAZ EURO-2)

The water pump is used in the cooling systems of KamAZ PJSC vehicles with EURO 2 standard engines. The device causes coolant to circulate, taking heat from working units and components and transferring it to the radiator. Operating a vehicle if the pump is broken is prohibited, so the pump serves as an important structural part of the cooling system.

The KamAZ EURO 2 water pump produced by NPO Ural has an article number (code): 740.50-1307010 and is supplied to the KamAZ plant conveyor

Advantages of water pump 740 50 1307010 for KamAZ PJSC vehicles:

• ensures circulation of antifreeze or other coolant in the system;
• prevents overheating and breakdown of vehicle components;
• eliminates emergency situations and breakdowns during operation in extreme weather conditions.

The product is used in the cooling system of KamAZ vehicles with Euro-2 engines. The pump differs from other classes in the configuration of the pulley and landing planes. The design of all EURO classes is the same.

DIY pump repair

Manufacturers have declared the mileage of a new KamAZ vehicle (Euro 3) to be at least 800 thousand km. However, difficult operating conditions, overloads and sudden temperature changes make their own adjustments. In practice, the pump can withstand 50–60 thousand km. This assumes that regular maintenance is carried out. The main malfunctions of the water pump 740.63–1307040 are considered:

• chips and cracks in the pump body;
• bending or wear of the working shaft;
• wear of the sealing gland;
• bearing wear.

The quality of the coolant plays a huge role in the proper operation of the water pump. As you know, antifreeze is designed for 30 thousand kilometers or 2 years of continuous operation. After the stated period, the properties of the antifreeze change dramatically. This is especially reflected in the lubricating and anti-corrosion properties. The constantly wetted impeller and radiator become covered with rust, flakes of which clog the ducts and rubbing areas. This leads to premature wear of the entire cooling system.

The good news for the motorist is that pumps of this type are available for repair. They can be easily and completely disassembled and contain no irreplaceable parts.

The main signs of a pump malfunction

It happens that the main systems of your KAMAZ are working properly, however, the indicator shows increased engine temperature. In this case, first of all, you should pay attention to the proper operation of the water pump. Below we will look at the main signs indicating a pump failure:

• A broken pump produces a characteristic sound, which, with increasing speed, changes from a slight howl to a sharp squeal.
• Presence of specific leaks in the area of ​​the water pump.
• During the cold season, the car interior does not heat up well.

Video: replacing a pump on KamAZ

The cost of a new original water pump for a KamAZ vehicle ranges from 150 to 200 dollars. The repair kit costs about $6. Obviously, replacing it yourself will cost much less, even if you have to completely replace the coolant in the system.

The water pump of the engine cooling system is designed to create forced circulation of coolant (coolant). The KamAZ pump is located in the front part of the left cylinder block and is driven by rotation transmitted from the engine fluid coupling pulley via a belt drive. Failure of the pump leads to boiling of antifreeze and failure of the entire engine. Monitoring the level and quality of coolant will help ensure the pump is in good condition.

The main signs of a pump malfunction

It happens that the main systems of your KAMAZ are working properly, however, the indicator shows increased engine temperature. In this case, first of all, you should pay attention to the proper operation of the water pump. Below we will look at the main signs indicating a pump failure:

• A broken pump produces a characteristic sound, which, with increasing speed, changes from a slight howl to a sharp squeal.
• Presence of specific leaks in the area of ​​the water pump.
• During the cold season, the car interior does not heat up well.

Design and principle of operation

The water pump is a centrifugal type pump, which consists of:

• housings;
• shaft;
• 2 ball bearings;
• mechanical seal;
• impellers;
• pulley

The cast body is made of cast iron or aluminum and has 2 pipes: the suction pipe is connected to the radiator, and the pressure pipe is connected to the cylinder block jacket. This connection diagram makes it possible to pump liquid already cooled in the radiator.

There are 2 holes on the pump body: the upper one is used to ventilate the cavity of the bearing assembly, and the lower one is intended to control antifreeze leaks if the seal is not sealed; it simultaneously serves as drainage.

Bearings are lubricated during operation through a special device (grease gun).

Due to the fact that the pump drive is mechanical and directly connected to the engine, the coolant circulation speed depends on the engine speed. The higher the rotation speed, the more intense the cooling. The mechanical seal is designed to prevent antifreeze from entering the hydraulic (water) cavity into the bearing assembly. It is installed on a shaft and consists of a moving and a stationary (rotating) part. Tightness is ensured by graphite sealing surfaces, onto which graphite lubricant is applied.

To create a tight connection, a spring is installed on the moving part of the sealing device. Over time, graphite surfaces wear out and lose their seal. In this case, it is possible to replace them. The impeller is placed on the pump shaft and secured with a nut. The pump is installed on the cylinder block on a special gasket that reduces vibration.

Do-it-yourself water pump repair

The car's designers declared a maximum mileage of 800,000 kilometers for a new car. However, there are a number of reasons that significantly reduce the warranty mileage.

• harsh operating conditions;
• presence of significant overloads;
• sudden temperature changes.

As a result, the pump can travel approximately 60,000 kilometers. And even in this case, regular maintenance of the device is expected.

Experts consider the most common motor pump malfunctions to be:

• cracks, chips on the pump body;
• significant wear or bending of the geometry of the working shaft of the water pump;
• complete mechanical wear of the rubber seal;
• wear of bearing components.

Malfunctions and repairs

The cause of the water pump malfunction is the loss of tightness of the mechanical seal. After hot coolant enters the cavity of the bearings, the lubricant is washed out of the latter. After a while the pump starts to rattle and then jams. Self-diagnosis allows you to identify such a defect by antifreeze leakage from the control hole, shaft play, and in winter - by a decrease in the efficiency of the cabin heater.

Restoring the pump's functionality can be done through a unit replacement. But most drivers repair the KamAZ pump with their own hands. If the spare parts kit contains the necessary parts or the shaft assembly, then repairing the pump is not difficult at all. To do this, it is necessary to remove the pump from its original location, disassemble and replace defective parts. A distinctive feature of the KamAZ Euro water pump is that the blower fan is mounted not on the pump pulley, but on a fluid coupling.

How to remove and disassemble

Dismantling the pump is not difficult. Before starting work, it is necessary to drain the coolant. It must be remembered that antifreeze is toxic and can harm the environment. Therefore, it needs to be collected in a container. Clean coolant after filtration can be reused. To remove the drive belts, you need to loosen their tension. After draining the coolant, remove the clamps securing the antifreeze supply pipes.

The pump is attached to the block with 3 bolts. Having unscrewed them, remove the pump assembly from its regular place and take it out along with the coolant supply pipes to the thermostat and fluid coupling. To disassemble the water pump, remove the pulley and impeller fasteners. To remove the shaft with bearings and seal, use a drift made of soft material. If necessary, disassemble the defective unit and install functional parts from the repair kit.

How to change

KamAZ trucks use pumps with single- and double-strand pulleys. If there is a need for a unit replacement, then you need to buy a pump that is a complete analogue of the previously installed one. Otherwise, there is a high probability of a repeat defect. The pump is replaced in the reverse order of removal. Before installing it, it is necessary to fill the cavity of the bearing unit with grease until the latter appears in the control hole. This will make it difficult for antifreeze to enter if the seal breaks.

How much does a pump and its repair cost?

The price of the pump depends on the manufacturer, engine model and region of the country. Its cost ranges from 5 to 15 thousand rubles. Refurbished products are sold in the range of 2-2.5 thousand rubles. Do-it-yourself repairs will cost much less, since a repair kit can be bought for 600-700 rubles. This will more than cover even a complete replacement of antifreeze. If the pump body is without flaws and the impeller is not damaged by cavitation corrosion, then it makes sense to replace the defective parts yourself.

It must be remembered that the use of high-quality coolant and periodic maintenance will significantly extend the service life of the pump.