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Currently produced compressor equipment is reliable and durable. Despite the fact that the basis is the same units, thanks to modern developments and technical progress, dramatic changes have occurred for the better. The equipment has become more compact, while maintaining the same power.

The use of innovative materials has made it possible to increase the service life of most parts. To extend the life of spare parts, lubricating fluids are used, to which special additives are added. For control, most compressor models use a control panel, which can easily start and stop the unit. All information about the time worked and the amount of compressed medium produced is displayed on the console. In some models, information about possible problems is displayed on the display.

Unlike industrial compressor equipment, household models also have various sensors, but there is no remote control on which all the information is displayed, which most often creates a problem. For example, if a temperature sensor receives a signal about a slight deviation from the normal temperature, it signals a malfunction and stops the engine. This case is quite complicated, since it is not easy to find out what kind of problem is reducing the temperature readings.

There are four main malfunctions that lead to malfunction of brake systems:

– malfunction of the protective valves, – clogging or looseness of receivers, pipelines and hoses, – improper operation of piston rings and sensors, – compressed air leakage.
In order to prevent possible malfunctions in the KAMAZ brake system, it is necessary to check the operation of its systems in a timely manner. This can be done once every two years. So, below is a list of possible defects in the KAMAZ brake system and methods for eliminating it.

There is a lot of oil in the pneumatic system.

Wear of piston rings. Remedy: replace the compressor.

Receivers of circuit 1, 2 and 3 are not filled with air.

Cause: The supply tubes are clogged. Elimination method: simply blow out the tubes, and if foreign objects are found there, remove them. Cause: The safety valve is broken. Remedy: change the valve.

Pneumatic system receivers fill very slowly or do not fill at all.

Cause: Tubes, hoses or adapter and connecting equipment are not tightened sufficiently. Remedy: Tighten the places where the parts are connected; if necessary, replace the uncorrected parts. Reason: the receiver or device is not hermetically sealed. Remedy: change the receiver or device. Cause: The air supply hoses and tubes are damaged. Remedy: change hose and tube assemblies. Cause: Compressor performance is low Remedy: Check the compressor if it needs to be replaced. Reason: presence of dents on the surface of the outlet or air supply bosses. It is noticeable to a significant extent that the surfaces are not perpendicular to the axes of the holes in the threads. Remedy: Sand out small nicks and dents. Remove the problem of non-perpendicularity.

In the receivers of circuits 1 and 2, over or underpressure is observed when the pressure regulator is operating.

Cause: The pressure regulator is not adjusted correctly. Remedy: make adjustments using the adjusting screw, change the regulator as necessary. Cause: broken 2-pointer pressure gauge. Remedy: change the pressure gauge.

The car brakes poorly or there is no braking when the brake pedal is pressed.

Cause: Compressed air leak. Remove air leak.

Poor braking of the vehicle or lack of braking.

The prerequisite is that the circuit 3 hoses or tubes are clogged. Remedy: clean the tubes and then blow them with compressed air. If necessary, change it. Reason: spring energy batteries do not work. Remedy: change the spring energy accumulator and brake chamber. Cause: The relay valve is faulty. Remedy: replace faulty parts. Reason: increase in the stroke rate of the brake chamber rods. Remedy: adjust the stroke of the rods

Pull towards the vehicle when braking.

Cause: The brake pad linings of the brakes are oily. Remedy: change or wash the brake pad linings. Cause: The brake mechanism is poorly adjusted. Remedy: Adjust the rod output.

Source: www.tankdiv.ru

Reasons why the compressor does not gain pressure

Regardless of the reliability of compressors, problems and breakdowns may occur during long-term operation. One of the most common problems is that the unit stops pumping the compressed medium. Owners of diesel-powered screw compressors usually do not know what to do in this case.

After some time has passed since the unit was put into operation, such a problem may occur. In this case, the equipment cannot obtain the required pressure. There can be many reasons for this. One of the options is incorrect settings of the pressure regulators. If they are not broken, then a thorough inspection of the entire unit is necessary. First you need to check the locations of the inlet connections of the pipes to the receiver and the outlet threaded connections of the cylinder. Vibration could cause these components to become loose, which would consequently cause low pressure.

There are several other options in which the compressor simply cannot raise the pressure to the required level, which causes equipment failure:

• air leakage at the threaded connection of the pressure gauge and relief valve;
• a loose overpressure relief valve.

Fixing this problem is quite easy. It is enough to tighten the couplings tightly with a wrench of the appropriate size. Sometimes you need to replace the gasket or make a winding.

If such a check does not produce results, since all threaded connections are screwed tightly, air is not leaking through them, but the pressure continues to remain low, then you need to perform the following steps. Turn on the compressor, make a soap solution, which coats all connections. If there is an air leak somewhere, then bubbles immediately form at this place. Since the operating unit is very noisy, it is impossible to hear the air escaping from the fistula, but in this way it is clearly visible where there is a gap.

Sometimes a diesel screw compressor cannot pump out the required pressure due to worn-out compression rings. They need to be replaced, since these parts and the piston have an established working life. If such a replacement is not made, then first there is a lack of pressure, and then the power of the entire installation drops.

If, when treating with a soap solution, air is leaking under the cylinder and its head, then it is best to contact specialists who repair screw compressors. A fistula formed in this hard-to-reach place most often becomes the cause of low pressure and malfunctioning equipment.

You can repair this unit yourself. First, remove the casing, then unscrew the nuts connecting the body and cylinder head. In some cases, a stud is unscrewed instead of a nut. When reassembling, you will need to put them in place and tighten them with nuts. After lifting the cylinder head, you can see the gasket. If there is a break in the wall, then a replacement must be made. Some models of compressor equipment are equipped with a set of gaskets or they can be purchased at a special store.

To watch online, click on the video ⤵

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Source: putinizm.ru

Design and mechanism of operation

The design of this mechanism contains such parts as:

• unloading piston and valve;
• air flow sampling plug;
• release type valve;
• spring mechanism;
• balancing device;
• adjusting screw;
• case;
• follower type piston;
• check valve;
• unloading mechanism saddle;
• cap;
• atmospheric findings;
• filter and pusher.

The flow of compressed air from the compressor system through the output of the control mechanism, filter elements and valves enters the receivers of the car's pneumatic system.

How to install

After replacing parts, the compressor must be installed back. To do this you should:

1. Place the connecting rod in a vice, press in the bushing and pin, lubricating it with oil
2. Place the rings, remove the part from the vice
3. Attach head, seat gaskets, valves, springs
4. Screw in the plugs
5. Press in the crankshaft with oil seals, install thrust rings
6. Install the gear and lock washer
7. Pull the cover with gasket onto the crankcase, secure with bolts
8. Blow with compressed air
9. Press intake valves and guides into the cylinder block
10. Install the unit head on the block, tighten with nuts

How to adjust air pressure

In order to adjust the air pressure, you need to install the vehicle on an inspection hole or a special platform for repair work.

Adjustment of the mechanism is carried out only when the power unit is turned off.

The whole process takes place in 3 steps: disassembly, adjustment and installation.

In order to dismantle the regulator, it is necessary to unscrew the lock nut and unscrew the adjusting screw. This will help loosen the counterbalance type piston springs. After this, use a special socket wrench to remove the spring device, unscrew the protective cover and remove the sealing collar.

In order to remove the muffler, you need to unscrew the fasteners from the bottom of the cover and remove the filter element. Then you should remove 2 o-rings and the unloading piston. After dismantling, it is recommended to wash all parts with clean gasoline.

After the above steps, you should install the regulator on a special test panel and connect the device according to the diagram given in the user manual.

After connecting, you need to apply compressed air at a pressure of at least 1.4 MPa to the terminals 3 times.

In this case, if the limits of the regulated pressure exceed 0.8 MPa, it is necessary to adjust the pressure level to the required limits using a bolt.

Upon completion of the adjustment, you should check the level of pressure on and off the regulator 3 times, after which you can lock the bolt.

Compressor parts defective

In the event of defect detection, parts with cracks, chips, burrs, scratches on working surfaces, and other mechanical damage are subject to rejection.

If the inner surface of the cylinders is worn by more than 0.02 mm, it is necessary to bore the cylinders to the repair size (Table 1). The seat diameter under the intake valve seat should not exceed 17.027 mm.

The diameter for ball bearings in the compressor crankcase should be no more than 72.05 mm.

With a larger diameter, an interference fit of the bearing is not ensured.

The non-flatness of the contact surface of the compressor head to the cylinder block should be no more than 0.1 mm.

Risks and wear marks on the surface of the discharge valve seats are eliminated by grinding and lapping the valves.

The diameter of the hole for installing the discharge valve must be no more than 28.8 mm.

The diameter of the crankshaft for ball bearings and gears must be at least 35 mm, for the mechanical seal no more than 25.05 mm, and the width of the keyway no more than 5.02 mm.

When the connecting rod journals wear out, they must be ground to the next repair size (Table 3).

The non-parallelism of the axes of the holes in the upper and lower heads of the connecting rod (bending) over a length of 100 mm should be no more than 0.1 mm.

The misalignment of the axes of the holes of the upper and lower heads (twisting) over a length of 100 mm should be no more than 0.15 mm.

The diameter of the lower head of the connecting rod should be no more than 32.02 mm, and the diameter of the bushing of the upper head should not be more than 12.507 mm.

If the upper head bushing is loose, it must be replaced.

When replacing, an lubrication hole must be drilled in the bushing and the bushing must be turned to the nominal size.

The connecting rods are divided into groups at 0.003 mm intervals according to the smaller hole diameter and are marked with paint (Table 4).

The height of the discharge valve plug must be at least 31.1 mm.

The seat diameter of the seal is at least 24.94 mm.

For the compressor drive gear, the tooth thickness along the chord of the pitch circle must be at least 4.2 mm, and along the width of the keyway no more than 5.15 mm.

Wear of the piston at the bottom and skirt by more than 0.015 mm from the nominal or repair size is not allowed (Table 5).

Repair size pistons are marked on the outer surface of the bottom. The diameter of the hole in the piston boss for the pin is allowed to be no more than 12.5 mm.

Based on the diameter of the hole in the boss, the pistons are divided into groups every 0.003 mm (Table 6).

The diameter of the piston pin must be at least 12.488 mm. Fingers are sorted into groups by diameter.

The sizes and markings by group correspond to the sizes and markings for pistons (see Table 6).

Wear of the liner by more than 0.01 mm from the nominal or repair size is not allowed (Table 7).

When checking, piston rings are installed in ring gauges.

The gap in the lock of the piston ring installed in the caliber must be within 0.2 ... 0.6 mm.

Ring repair kits are marked with green paint; the diameters of the gauges for checking the rings are given in Table 8.

Malfunctions and repairs

Main malfunctions and repairs of the regulator:

1. If air leaks through the atmospheric outlet, you need to clean the valve body or replace the faulty valve and O-ring.
2. The device has finished switching the compressor to idle mode. This problem can be caused by clogging of the channel, jamming of the piston, or damage to the cuff. It is recommended to clean the valve, conduct an external inspection of the cuff and, if necessary, change it to a new one, and also update the piston.
3. The regulator has finished switching the compressor to the mode of filling the system with air. This malfunction is associated with clogging of the atmospheric orifice and intake valve, a warped spring, a worn O-ring, tightness of the piston part and wear of the valves. It is necessary to carry out an external inspection of the entire system for damage and defects, and replace failed spare parts as necessary.
4. Air leakage through the outlet into the atmosphere can be eliminated by replacing the filter element.
5. When there is no supply of compressed air flow to the brake system of a vehicle, it is necessary to clean the return valve from accumulated contaminants or replace it if worn.
6. If there is a small shaft between the on and off pressure levels of the control device, you should change the warped cuffs and rings, inspect and clean the valves and seats.

All repair work is carried out only with the engine turned off.

KAMAZ compressor diagnostics

It is recommended to carry out a preventive inspection of the vehicle compressor at every maintenance. For KAMAZ it is carried out every 8-10 thousand kilometers.

The supercharger is inspected for the presence of external defects, the supply pressure is checked (the norm is from 589 kPa), the tightness of the valves (determined by the level of pressure drop in 60 seconds, the norm is up to 39 kPa), and oil release.

If deviations from normal values ​​occur, the compressor is troubleshooted and the faults are eliminated.

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Reviews and prices

The average cost of the Russian Far East is 4,500 rubles.

Misha, 36 years old, Izhevsk: “I have been working as a KamAZ driver for 6 years. Over the course of its operation, the air pressure regulator in the pneumatic system failed a couple of times. On average, repairs take about one to two days. In order for the mechanism to break down less often, I recommend using high-quality fuel.”

Alexander, 49 years old, Lipetsk: “I work in a service center. Cars are often brought in for repairs with a non-functioning air pressure regulator. This mechanism fails if maintenance is not carried out on time and the oil in the system is not frequently changed. I also recommend cleaning the filters at least once a month.”

Evgeniy, 53 years old, Voronezh: “I work at KamAZ 45143. The regulator failed only 2 years after the start of operation of the vehicle. At first, an air leak began, and later the device finished switching the compressor to a suitable operating mode. I did the repairs without the help of others according to the instructions, no difficulties arose.”

Konstantin, 46 years old, Leninsk: “In order to repair the regulator, I recommend using a special device that helps adjust the pressure level. Before connecting equipment to this device, it is necessary to perform an external inspection of the regulator for the presence of any damage or defects.”

Peter, 50 years old, Krasnodar: “I have repaired the regulator at KamAZ 3 times already. The cause of failure is always clogged filter parts and warped cuffs. In order to avoid defects, I recommend changing the O-rings once every 3 months and frequently carrying out technical maintenance of the vehicle.”

Possible malfunctions of the brake systems of KamAZ vehicles are given in Table 12.2

Table 12.2 – Possible malfunctions of brake systems