The clutch basket is a drive disc mounted on the flywheel of a car engine. Inside the basket there is a driven disk, which is connected to the input shaft of the gearbox using a splined connection. The clutch block of a passenger car consists of a release bearing, a driven disc and a drive disc. Moreover, the leader is called a basket. But it really is very similar to it; this basket contains a driven disk mounted on the input shaft of the gearbox. This is a double-disc clutch, it is used on all passenger cars, as it is very simple and reliable. In terms of reliability, it is much superior to the multi-disc type that is installed on motorcycles.
The clutch basket has some special features. Inside it there is a metal disk, to which the driven disk with linings fits tightly during operation. There are petals around the hole into which the gearbox input shaft is installed. The release bearing, placed on the input shaft, pulls the lobes towards the engine block, while the driven disk disengages from the drive one. At this moment the clutch is disengaged and gears can be changed.
How does a paddle clutch differ from a conventional clutch?
Actually which one to choose.
engine UMZ 421, car UAZ 31519. If it’s claw, then with 9 springs! 6 is missing. rather weak! What is it missing for? 6 springs are enough for me to slip all 4 wheels. Installing 9 springs will lead to deformation of the legs and increased wear of the needle bearings. My clutch with one driven disc lasts almost 100 thousand. About 60 thousand. I changed the paws not because of their wear, but due to the transition to a backlash-free design and the installation of a constant release pressure.
Obviously, the petal one is better. I left the claw only because of the lack of funds for the petal one. 6 springs were enough (I rode on different loaves for many years), but literally a month ago I finished off the slave - it stopped gripping. If you give full throttle it suddenly slips. Added 3 more .
The train of thought is interesting. 6 springs were enough, I finished off the driven disk and therefore added 3 springs. My applause.
But what to do if, I repeat: empty loaf, 4 speed, 40 km/h, you press the gas “to the floor” and the clutch slips? I think the springs are weak, so I added 3. It was, of course, possible to take 6 new ones and replace them - the result would be the same.
It is unlikely that the springs have weakened. The springs in the claw clutch rest against the pressure plate through thermally insulating spacers. This is why the claw clutch does not seat when overheated, unlike the diaphragm clutch. The reason must be sought elsewhere. 9 springs will ruin your basket with 100% probability.
It is unlikely that the springs have weakened. The springs in the claw clutch rest against the pressure plate through thermally insulating spacers. This is why the claw clutch does not seat when overheated, unlike the diaphragm clutch. The reason must be sought elsewhere. 9 springs will ruin your basket with 100% probability.
What happened to me. About the springs: in 2004, on a run of literally 100 km, the clutch suddenly began to slip, although the UAZ went for a run-in on the outskirts of Moscow along the “work-home-work” route, I didn’t go to the warranty, but took it apart - the disc itself was in excellent condition, but the basket feet can be It was possible to squeeze it all the way with the fingers of one hand - it turns out that the springs “sat down” - an obvious defect. At work, they assembled a basket with 9 springs for me, it ended with replacing the flywheel (there was no time to take it for sharpening and there was almost a new one in stock) and a Luke clutch was bought - no problems since then.
What happened to me. About the springs: in 2004, on a run of literally 100 km, the clutch suddenly began to slip, although the UAZ went for a run-in on the outskirts of Moscow along the “work-home-work” route, I didn’t go to the warranty, but took it apart - the disc itself was in excellent condition, but the basket feet can be It was possible to squeeze it all the way with the fingers of one hand - it turns out that the springs “sat down” - an obvious defect. At work, they assembled a basket with 9 springs for me, it ended with replacing the flywheel (there was no time to take it for sharpening and there was almost a new one in stock) and a Luke clutch was bought - no problems since then.
If the springs are defective, then they do not work immediately, which is confirmed by you. Alexey 71, judging by what he wrote, had springs that lasted a long time, which indicates that they were not defective.
Source
Replacement and repair of clutch basket
Replacing the clutch basket is an operation that skilled drivers carry out in the garage, using a jack and support blocks. If it is possible to use a lift, then you should use it.
The work of replacing the basket and repairing the clutch is not an easy task for the uninitiated person. The technological features of removing the gearbox and disconnecting the clutch are different for different models, so we describe the principle and sequence of the operation for replacing the basket.
- First, you need a manual, namely, a repair manual for your car. Necessarily. Namely, the method of repair and maintenance.
- The second thing you need is to get a catalog of parts (something may be superfluous, something may be missing).
- It is important that when disconnecting the gearbox, before removing the clutch, you need to mark the position of all rotating parts so that during reassembly (if installed incorrectly), vibrations do not occur.
- Disconnect the gear shift lever in the cabin.
- We get to the gearbox and disconnect it.
- Unscrew the bolts securing the basket to the flywheel. If the flywheel turns, then hold it with a mounting tool.
- Remove the clutch basket and driven disc.
- The clutch release clutch is dismantled along with the bearing. As the repair progresses, evaluate the condition of the clutch fork, and other parts, the bushing, and so on.
- The release bearing will need to be pressed out of the clutch. This is a labor-intensive operation. After pressing out, the clutch bearing is changed. For lubrication, use only those lubricants recommended by the manufacturer.
Before assembling the clutch, thoroughly wash all parts in kerosene and at the same time troubleshoot them. Never reinstall damaged clutch parts.
We assemble the clutch after cleaning the parts from old lubricant and applying new one. Naturally, we install the clutch and gearbox strictly in the reverse order.
Important! Pay attention to the tightening of the bolts. It is necessary to clarify the tightening torque parameters of the basket bolts to the flywheel, and so on.
Petal clutch at MTZ
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Greetings to all. Maybe someone uses such a clutch, I want to install one for myself.
A friend installed it and forgot where it was, for about 3 years now. I installed something imported, I don’t remember anymore.
Greetings to all. Maybe someone uses such a clutch, I want to install one for myself.
Installed a year ago by the German company luk (bow), so far it’s ok, it’s easier to squeeze, it grips sharply, the riveting on the disk is ceramic. I’m glad I’ll take another one as a spare, otherwise I’ve been using the Chetra disc for a year already, usually under the gun and with a cutter it’s enough for a year, the original one was enough for 2500 hours (2.5 years).
A friend installed it and forgot where it was, for about 3 years now. I installed something imported, I don’t remember anymore.
Now on sale there is a Luk (Germany) with a ceramic disc and just a Taya petal basket (Chinese) for regular discs. I am more inclined to the German one
Installed a year ago by the German company luk (bow), so far it’s ok, it’s easier to squeeze, it grips sharply, the riveting on the disk is ceramic. I’m glad I’ll take another one as a spare, otherwise I’ve been using the Chetra disc for a year already, usually under the gun and with a cutter it’s enough for a year, the original one was enough for 2500 hours (2.5 years).
I bought a tractor in March 14, the original disk lasted until the summer of 15, about 2000 m.h., I work with a wheel and a cutter. Now on sale there is a Luk (Germany) with a ceramic disc and just a Taya petal basket (Chinese) for regular discs, but I am more inclined to the German one. Our Luk costs from 15900 to 22600, Taya 9800-12900 + you still need to get a new disc. And the reason is that the ear broke off on the pressure plate where the foot is
A friend installed it and forgot where it was, for about 3 years now. I installed something imported, I don’t remember anymore.
Now on sale there is a Luk (Germany) with a ceramic disc and just a Taya petal basket (Chinese) for regular discs. I am more inclined to the German one
Definitely not China, most likely onions, because ceramics.
Does anyone know the part number for the clutch bow? Write. Thank you.
Ivan thanks for the information. I called the company, but they only give me a disk on this number. Didn't you change the disc drive?
I bought myself a Luk clutch. Very pleased, soft. I recommend
Alexey Sadko. I bought myself a Luk clutch. Very pleased, soft. I recommend
Tell us in more detail about installation and operation. Where did you get the clutch and how much does it cost? I would like to install such a clutch on my MTZ 82 93 model. I was tormented by the grinding noise of the gearbox when switching. Adjusting the paws doesn't help much. Or am I somehow adjusting them crookedly.
Alexey Sadko. I bought myself a Luk clutch. Very pleased, soft. I recommend
Tell us in more detail about installation and operation. Where did you get the clutch and how much does it cost? I would like to install such a clutch on my MTZ 82 93 model. I was tormented by the grinding noise of the gearbox when switching. Adjusting the paws doesn't help much. Or am I somehow adjusting them crookedly.
installation as standard. I bought it from an agricultural truck in Verkh Tula, 17200 set. Yenisei Corporation also has stores.
Article: 80-1601090
Order code: 063258
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Serves for proper connection of the diesel engine and transmission, their short-term separation, as well as protecting the transmission from overloads.
— Overall dimensions, mm: d397 x 88 — Weight, kg: 20
Applicability:
Diesel engines D-243 (80 hp); tractors MTZ-80.1, MTZ-82.1, MTZ-82.2, MTZ-82.R.
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How does a paddle clutch differ from a conventional clutch?
I changed the hose at the working cylinder, after replacing the release bearing began to chirp when the pedal was released. There is a spring in the manuals, but I have no hint of it. If you adjust the bearing until it rests firmly on the clutch paddles, it still whistles. How to regulate all this? Should it be pressed or not, should there be a spring installed or not: confused: 57867
And the release lever should not touch the petals, otherwise it will become pinched.
What about the constant engagement release? He is constantly in contact, without gap.
What about the constant engagement release? He is constantly in contact, without gap.
If you read the Talmud, the free play of the clutch pedal on the foot basket is 35050 mm. On the petal 5-30. From this we conclude that there should be no pressure.
And then, judge for yourself, if the pressed bearing jams, how quickly will the petals wear out? The asking price for the bearing is pennies, but what about the basket?
What about the constant engagement release? He is constantly in contact, without gap.
This is where I reached a dead end. There is no spring as a class, it starts to chirp due to the fact that it lightly touches the paws, i.e. doesn't go away completely. If you press it back, it doesn’t touch or whistle.
If the release lever is blacked out, then it’s definitely time to change it. The clutch will cost more money later when it gnaws through the petals. That’s why he sings because he slips through force. But if you really want something from you, read unfortunately the photos didn’t fit. How I dealt with the squeaking release. But this was because it was urgently necessary to narrow it down. Now why did the new release bearing begin to jam? When checking (they spun it), it crackled as if sand had gotten into it. It’s clear that he will jam! How did the sand get there? And it turned out that the manufacturer sealed the bearing on the back side with as many as two tin walls and, in addition, a rubber sealed jumper. This can be seen in the photographs. Highly commendable.
Types of clutches
According to the clutch actuator system, clutches can be divided into:
- friction (mechanical);
- electromagnetic;
- hydraulic.
The most common type of clutch is a friction clutch, which uses friction in its operation.
Electromagnetic, on the other hand, uses an electric motor with current to operate, which starts when the pedal is pressed. And the hydraulic clutch works by flowing oil fluid from a special reservoir into the master cylinder. Fluid fills the cylinder and, under pressure, the master cylinder piston pushes the slave cylinder rod, propelling the vehicle. Depending on the number of driven discs, the clutch can be single-disc or multi-disc. And according to the type of friction - dry and wet.
Automotive single-plate clutch device
Diagram of a double-disc clutch device
General design of a double-disc clutch
- Engine flywheel friction surface - blue color on the left
- Two driven discs - brown
- Intermediate drive disc - blue
- Pressure drive disk - green color
- Compression Springs - Gray
- Housing - blue color on the right
Not shown in the picture
- Forks
- Clutch release levers
- Release bearing
- Clutch release fork
- Release springs
Messages [1 to 25 of 41]
1 Topic from Shapsug 06/02/2012 14:25:45
- Shapsug
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Topic: pros and cons of the UAZ paddle clutch
Forum members, if anyone has encountered a paddle clutch on a UAZ, please write your review, the pros and cons of this clutch, it’s worth not messing with it, in terms of reliability, for 35 wheels.
Edited by Shapsug (06/02/2012 22:43:12)
2 Reply from DIMON 686 06/02/2012 14:35:12
- DIMON 686
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- User Karma:
Re: pros and cons of the UAZ paddle clutch
If you put it in valeo or reinforced, there was one also petal but it slipped on the squirrels! The width of the cracker should be large!
3 Reply from Shapsug 06/02/2012 14:40:55
- Shapsug
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Re: pros and cons of the UAZ paddle clutch
If you put it in valeo or reinforced, there was one also petal but it slipped on the squirrels! The width of the cracker should be large!
“Valeo” - what is it (company, model??)
4 Reply from DIMON 686 06/02/2012 15:01:29
- DIMON 686
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Re: pros and cons of the UAZ paddle clutch
5 Reply from DIMON 686 06/02/2012 15:02:09
- DIMON 686
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- User Karma:
Re: pros and cons of the UAZ paddle clutch
Go to UAZ Komplekt, there are several of the most popular types!
6 Reply from Leshy 06/02/2012 16:17:24
- Goblin
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Re: pros and cons of the UAZ paddle clutch
Tofik stood in a dirty mulyak, if you squeeze the clutch, it can disappear, dirt gets under the petals and alga, when he set his warning to himself, he ignored his ears and in a nice creamy puddle, while drawing. l forward, back also lost the clutch, it can be treated by unscrewing the pan, preferably a basket and using a thin wire with a hook you pick at the petals and tap, something like that, on blocked bridges, 35 simens, with a 2.6 transfer case, that’s enough for me, nothing slips.
7 Reply from nikola9204 06/02/2012 18:41:33
- nikola9204
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Re: pros and cons of the UAZ paddle clutch
.100 thousand The first one was over. Now there is a second basket. Wheels are 32nd. I don’t remember the manufacturer, it’s ours
8 Reply from Shapsug 06/02/2012 19:19:00
- Shapsug
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Re: pros and cons of the UAZ paddle clutch
.100 thousand The first one was over. Now there is a second basket. Wheels are 32nd. I don’t remember the manufacturer, it’s ours
32 is 35, and the question is in “extreme” rides, while the opinion is 70% that the petal basket is not for large wheels and not for extreme sports.
9 Reply from DIMON 686 06/02/2012 20:02:25
- DIMON 686
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- User Karma:
Re: pros and cons of the UAZ paddle clutch
Then there is only one option for you to get it off the lawn! There is an installation in the ABC and you will have eternal grip!
10 Reply from Shapsug 06/02/2012 20:22:45
- Shapsug
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Re: pros and cons of the UAZ paddle clutch
DIMON 686 , I’m happy with the original basket, but the clutch pedal is terribly tight, now it’s time to change the clutch disc and the question arose about comfort.
11 Reply from DIMON 686 06/02/2012 20:27:30
- DIMON 686
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Re: pros and cons of the UAZ paddle clutch
Well then think about it! If you install it with 3741 or tadpole, then there is a larger clutch disc than on the goat!
12 Reply from nikola9204 06/02/2012 20:43:43
- nikola9204
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Re: pros and cons of the UAZ paddle clutch
I'll try to lubricate everything. It will be much easier
13 Reply from Shapsug 06/02/2012 21:43:12
- Shapsug
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Re: pros and cons of the UAZ paddle clutch
I'll try to lubricate everything. It will be much easier
What is there to lubricate besides the release bearing.
Edited by Shapsug (06/03/2012 09:16:51)
14 Reply from Shapsug 06/03/2012 09:18:50
- Shapsug
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Re: pros and cons of the UAZ paddle clutch
Well, does anyone have any other thoughts, otherwise I want to make a choice by Monday.
How do all the components work together?
Let's assume that at this very moment you get into your car and hit the road. When you want to change gear, you (as you should) press the pedal to do so. By pushing it, you are actually pushing the pressure fork, which in turn pushes the release bearing, pushing it towards the diaphragm spring.
The spring in turn pulls the pressure plate. Once pulled out, the pressure plate is disconnected from the drive plate and friction between the drive plate and the flywheel is eliminated. This interrupts the rotation and once it stops, you can easily change gears while the car is in motion.
And vice versa... When the clutch is driven, the pressure plate exerts a constant torque on the drive plate. Since the pressure plate is attached to the flywheel, which in turn is attached to the car's engine, the drive (ferro) disc also rotates so that it can transmit rotating force to the transmission.