How to change the gearbox on a UAZ 469

Transmission feature

On the UAZ 469, the gearbox is mechanical, designed for 4 stages. At the same time, the 4-speed gearbox is equipped with synchronizers. They are necessary for speed equalization. There are shafts, with the primary shaft based on two supports. The intermediate shaft drive gears are helical. To absorb the occurrence of radial and axial loads during movement, the rear shaft support includes a double-row angular contact ball bearing. This gearbox allows the vehicle to move in reverse. The vehicle is equipped with a transfer case. The UAZ 469 transfer case includes drive axle shafts and gears, which have a long service life.

The advantage of a manual transmission is that it is designed to last a long time. A car that has off-road qualities and is equipped with a manual transmission is excellent for use on rough terrain.

General characteristics

UAZ gearbox

A gearbox is a car's gearbox. The UAZ 469 has a manual 4-speed gearbox equipped with inertia-type synchronizers. They are designed to engage gears without noise or rumble. Synchronizers help equalize the speed of the connecting teeth before engaging. The rotation speeds of the motor and wheels do not match; a synchronizer is needed to combine them. In addition, the gearbox allows the car to move in reverse.

The UAZ 469 gearbox consists of the following parts:

• input shaft;
• front cover;
• special purpose nut;
• auxiliary fasteners;
• auto laying;
• ball bearings;
• secondary shaft drive bearing;
• crankcase;
• coupling for connecting III and IV gears;
• 3rd gear gear;
• 2nd gear gear;
• clutch for connecting 1st and 2nd gears;
• 1st gear gear;
• secondary shaft;
• fastening washer;
• gearbox spacer ring;
• mounting bolt;
• washer for fastening;
• intermediate shaft;
• reverse gear axis;
• reverse gear;
• cork;
• block of gear wheels driving the intermediate shaft and 3rd gear;
• lid.

The device of the UAZ box

If you are interested in the UAZ gearbox diagram, it is easy to find it in photos and drawings posted on various sites on the Internet.

4 studs are screwed into the clutch housing, on which the gearbox is attached. The intermediate shaft drive has gears that are in stable mesh. 1st gear gears have straight teeth, 2nd and 3rd gears have spiral teeth. They are mounted on the drive shaft, supported by needle bearings. The drive shaft has 2 supports. When engaging second gear, the role of the clutch is performed by the first gear. Activation of reverse and first gear occurs due to the movement of gears. Gearbox ball bearings. To prevent movement along the axis, the gears are secured with rear bearings. The rear bearing of the intermediate shaft is integrated with the shaft itself using a bolt.

The switching device has 3 forks attached to the rods with locking screws and located in the side cover. The ball-shaped stopper for neutral position and engaged gears has a rod. The locking blocks located between the rods do not allow connecting 2 gears at the same time. The support contains a lever that helps move the forks. It itself is pressed by a spring to the supporting spherical surface. The boot placed on the lever prevents water and dirt from entering the device. To prevent accidental engagement of reverse gear (the driver may simply get confused), this device contains a fuse - a plunger, which is equipped with a return spring and a ball.

The box lubrication device is combined with the transfer case. Lubricant from the transfer case passes into the UAZ gearbox through a double-row bearing (angular contact) and the existing drain device, after which it returns through the drain hole.

UAZ gearbox repair

The manual transmission is the most important transmission unit of the UAZ 469 vehicle . The UAZ 469 gearbox has a responsible and fundamental task - monitoring the variability of the amount of engine torque and carrying out transmission from the engine to the drive wheels of the vehicle. The UAZ 469 manual transmission has a fairly long service life. This does not mean that the gearbox does not need repair.

Proper use of the vehicle makes it possible to go without repairs for a long time, but if the operating conditions are not met, the UAZ gearbox components wear out, which inevitably leads to repairs.

The advantage of purchasing a gearbox for a UAZ in our store

Our store provides the opportunity to purchase original spare parts for UAZ gearboxes at manufacturer prices. New and old boxes are available: ADS, Dymos for UAZ Patriot, 469, Bukhanki, etc.

In the SpetsTuningUAZ store you can buy a complete gearbox or its individual parts:

• gears;
• synchronizers;
• primary, secondary and intermediate shafts;
• backstage;
• couplings;
• fasteners;
• springs;
• traction;
• blocking.

Our managers will help you select gearbox spare parts, place an order, and accept requests for delivery anywhere in Russia and the CIS countries. As a nice bonus, delivery of assembled units, for example, engines, axles, gearboxes for the UAZ 469 and distribution boxes, is free throughout Russia.

How to assemble a UAZ gearbox cover

Hello everyone... in general, I solved my small problem. Now I’ll explain how I solved it

Do not lose the balls that will fly out when the rods are knocked out.

If you remove or disassemble the cover, place each fork on its own stem when removing it.

To begin with, I replaced the o-ring under which my transmission was leaking.

Here is approximately the new and old lever, the new one comes with an additional washer.

The rollers... the new shaft turned out to be hardened, and the thread was no longer 8, but 10. It fit into the old coupling as if it were original, there was a slight play left, but not much at all.

Carrying out diagnostics of the UAZ 469 gearbox

The car is subject to diagnostics if its handling has deteriorated. At the same time, squeaking noises may be heard when changing gears. Also, it is necessary to check the condition of the box if the gears activate spontaneously. In some cases, it is necessary to replace bearings and gears to solve the noise problem. If gear shifting is difficult, the synchronizers are checked. The main reason why there is a need to replace the components of the box on an SUV is their natural wear and tear.

One of the signs that the transfer case should be checked is if the grip of the wheels on the road has deteriorated, and noise from its side has begun to increase. Improper use of the vehicle leads to repair of the gearbox on the UAZ 469. In particular, it is necessary to timely change the transmission oil.

Another problem that a UAZ driver may encounter is an oil leak from the gearbox. This manifestation is the result of an increased oil level in the gearbox. Also, if water gets into the system while filling the box with new fuel, the motorist will soon face the problem of fluid leaking from the gearbox. However, it is not only the use of low-quality oil that can cause leakage, since there may be a crack in the crankcase or in the UAZ 469 gearbox cover.

Thus, the high-speed gearbox of the UAZ 469 car includes many working units that ensure optimal functioning of the automotive system. Taking this into account, the owner of the vehicle must subject the car to regular maintenance. This will reduce the risk of premature repair of the UAZ 469 gearbox.

Repairing the gearbox cover on a loaf

Repairing the gearbox cover on a UAZ loaf will differ depending on what problems have arisen in it.

For example, in a situation where the bushings are worn out, you can do the following: make new bushings and put the cover back, first boring out the space for it (in this case, the axles are replaced with completely new ones).

Oil dripping from axles due to worn bushings can be eliminated in another way. To do this, you will need to remove the levers, cut off pieces of small thickness from a pre-selected hose that is resistant to oils and gasoline (which is selected individually for the cover), insert them onto the axles and tighten them with the levers.

In this case, the levers will turn a little tighter, but the gear shift speed will remain the same.

Some users, if they encounter similar problems associated with wear of the splines on the axles and non-engagement of gears, advise not to repair the cover, but to purchase a new one.

In this case, the new UAZ loaf part must be upgraded before installation. To do this, fluoroplastic bushings are installed in place of the rubber bushings.

The removed bushings are cut and installed on the shafts under the levers, which ensures the absence of backlash and protects this part of the mechanism from dirt and water getting into it.

If one of the gears starts to slip out, it’s worth checking:

• the condition of the balls and springs in the gearbox cover , which fix the rods when changing gears - perhaps the cause of the problem lies in their wear, and these components require replacement;
• the condition of the gears - this can also cause gear failures;
• bushings - if the problem is in them, then this part can be strengthened.

Most often, the reason for knocking out gears lies in worn gears and balls, as well as broken springs.

In addition, before repairing the gearbox cover, you should pay attention to the general condition of the mechanism - perhaps a major breakdown, which is clearly noticeable, hides several minor problems, or the entire mechanism is so worn out that it would be wiser to replace it with a new one.

Assembling a synchronized gearbox

Assemble the gearbox, starting with the subassembly of its components, in the following order:

Assembling the input shaft

Latch the blocking ring onto the shaft cone to a size of 0.8–1.25 mm, as shown in Fig. 36

Press the ball bearing all the way with the sealing ring towards the bearing nut.

Screw on the bearing mounting nut (left-hand thread) and lock it by centering it in the groove of the shaft.

Place grease in the shaft hole and insert the rollers (14 pieces).

Synchronizer assembly

Select a set of couplings and synchronizer hubs with minimal clearances during free movement according to Fig. 37 or use factory-selected kits 469–1701117 and 469–1701138.

Place three springs (Fig. 38), three guide springs, three balls and three crackers in the hub and install the clutch on the hub (the clutch for 1st and 2nd gears is made integral with the reverse gear).

Install the crackers with the side with the smaller diameter holes towards the coupling.

Secondary shaft assembly

Install the 3rd gear needle bearing, bearing spacer, snap ring and key.

Latch the synchronizer blocking ring on the third gear cone to a size of 0.8–1.25 mm, as shown in Fig. 39.

Lubricate the bearing with transmission oil, install the 3rd gear gear with a locking ring, a thrust ring, install the 3rd and 4th gear synchronizer and the locking ring with the cut to the hub key.

Latch the synchronizer blocking rings on the cones of the 1st and 2nd gears to a size of 0.8–1.25 mm, as shown in Fig. 39.

Install the 2nd gear needle bearing and retaining ring.

Lubricate the bearing with transmission oil, install the 2nd gear with a blocking ring, a thrust ring, and install the 1st and 2nd gear synchronizer.

Install the thrust ring, retaining ring, 1st gear gear with blocking ring and lubricated bearing, install the spacer ring (oil slinger) so that the pin of the secondary shaft fits into the groove of the spacer ring (oil slinger).

Install the lock bushing and secure it (the lock bushing will make it easier to install the output shaft assembly into the transmission housing).

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• Repairing the UAZ 469 Gearbox Do-It-Yourself Video

The UAZ 469, produced by the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant, is used to transport people and goods. The all-terrain capability of this car allows you to drive on any road.

Gearbox UAZ 3151

POSSIBLE GEARBOX MALFUNCTIONS, THEIR CAUSES AND REMEDY METHODS

The gearbox has four forward gears and one reverse gear.

Rice. 3.10. Synchronized gearbox: 1 – input shaft; 2 – front cover;

3 – special nut; 4,14,17,28 – retaining rings; 5 – gasket; 6,15,20,30 – bearings;

7 – front bearing of the secondary shaft; 8 – crankcase; 9 – synchronizer clutch for 3rd and 4th gears;

10 – third gear gear; 11 – 2nd gear gear; 12 – synchronizer clutch for 1st and 2nd gears;

13 – 1st gear gear; 16 – secondary shaft; 18 – washer; 19 – spacer ring; 21 – special bolt; 22 – disc spring; 23 – intermediate shaft; 24 – reverse gear axis; 25 – reverse gear; 26 – plug; 27 – gear block for drive of the intermediate shaft and 3rd gear;

Rice. 3.9. Gearbox, partially synchronized: 1 – crankcase;

2 – intermediate shaft drive gear; 3 – intermediate shaft bearing; 4 – nut; 5 – intermediate shaft; 6 – bearing cover;

7 – front cover; 8 – input shaft; 9 – special nut;

10 – front bearing of the secondary shaft; 11 – synchronizer clutch;

12 – secondary shaft; 13 – third gear gear; 14 – 2nd gear gear; 15 – 1st gear gear; 16 – rear bearing of the secondary shaft; 17 – retaining rings; 18 – bolt securing the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft; 19 – bearing of the reverse gear block; 20 – axis of the reverse gear block; 21 – reverse gear block; 22 – spacer sleeve; 23 – gear II of the intermediate shaft; 24 – third gear gear of the intermediate shaft; 25 – crankcase drain plug

Vehicles can be equipped with a gearbox with synchronizer only for III and IV (direct) gears (

Rice. 3.15. Disconnecting the gearbox from the transfer case

4. Lifting the gearbox up, disconnect it from the transfer case (

Rice. 3.16. Removing the reverse gear block

4. Unscrew the locking screw of the long drive gear block axle and press the axle back, removing the reverse gear block (

Rice. 3.17. Removing the synchronizer hub retaining ring

6. Remove the synchronizer hub retaining ring (

Rice. 3.18. Removing the intermediate shaft

8. Using a special wrench, unscrew the nut of the front bearing of the intermediate shaft and remove the intermediate shaft together with the bearing back (

Rice. 3.19. Removing the bearing from the input shaft

10. Using a puller, remove the bearing from the input shaft (

Rice. 3.20. Gear shift mechanism for cars of the UAZ-31512 family: 1 – gear shift lever; 2 – seal; 3, 22 – pins; 4 – lever spring; 5 – lever support; 6 – side cover of the gearbox; 7 – fuse cover;

Do-it-yourself dismantling of the speed box

What tools are needed to repair a transmission? To carry out repairs, you should acquire a complete repair kit. In particular, you will need open-end and socket wrenches, a hammer, screwdrivers, and a mounting blade.

It should be noted that the box is heavy, all due to the fact that the device communicates with the transfer case. Given this, dismantling the box should not be done alone.

How to remove the box? To begin the procedure for removing the checkpoint, you should perform the following steps:

1. The UAZ stands on the inspection hole.
2. The transmission oil is drained (this will lighten the weight of the box a little).
3. The seats in the cabin are dismantled.
4. The clutch release fork, frame, cardan, speedometer shaft, clutch pan, and muffler adjacent to the transfer case must be removed. The slide must be removed.
5. The transfer case must be disconnected from the main gearbox. As a rule, the transfer case is wrapped with rope and suspended.
6. All consumable parts (bolts, nuts, etc.) are unscrewed.
7. Since the UAZ gearbox is fixed on fasteners, they need to be unscrewed and the box can be removed from the splines.

Repair of UAZ Bukhanka gearbox (removal, repair, installation)

To repair a gearbox you need a large set of equipment.

1. Open-end wrenches in 2 copies (for 10, 12, 13, 14, 17, 19, 22). Using a 14 wrench you need to unscrew the rear shaft from the transfer case flange. If you use this key incorrectly, you can create huge problems for yourself.
2. Socket wrenches.
3. Professional wrench for flat nuts.
4. Regular and Phillips screwdrivers.
5. Duckbills for removing and putting on circlips.
6. Metal pin for knocking out individual parts.
7. To quickly unscrew nuts and bolts, you need a small piece of iron pipe.
8. High quality core and chisel.
9. Mounting blade.
10. Heavy hammer.
11. A large number of cans for bolts and nuts to sequentially place parts during work.
12. Bearing puller.
13. A car owner who pays attention to his car can identify problems with the gearbox.

Return to contents

Start of repair of the UAZ 452 gearbox on your own: gearbox, transfer case

On most car models of this type, both parts are one. The weight of such a unit reaches 75-82 kg, therefore an assistant is necessary. If the car being repaired has a safety cage, then there is an option for removal for repairs

Use a manual winch at home for the UAZ 452 gearbox.

The machine needs to be placed on a level place, because then it will have to be moved 0.5 m forward or backward. First drain the oil. Both boxes have the same volume, but the plugs for draining the water are separate. While the oil is pouring out, you need to remove the front seats and unscrew them, and then put the hatch halves on the floor of the car. Next comes the turn of removing the speedometer rods.

When the oil has drained, screw the drain plugs back to their destination. There is a frame cross member under the handbrake drum that needs to be removed. Disconnect the front axle clutches and unscrew the front universal joint. If you find that the nuts are weak, then you need to remove this part.

If a UAZ 3303 gearbox is being repaired, you need to be careful with the clutches. The car is moved 0.5 m (in either direction) and the rear cardan is removed through the hatch. Disconnect the muffler from the transfer box and loosen its existing clamp. Then the following parts are removed alternately:

• clutch pan;
• fastening the oiler from the input shaft (it is located on the right, on the bell);
• 4 bolts that hold the clutch fork housing;
• adjusting the cylinder rod and fork.

The transfer case is wrapped with a rope and suspended. Remove the following parts:

• pillow bolts;
• nuts holding the bell box fastening.

During these actions, when repairing the UAZ 452 gearbox at home, the engine needs to be supported with a jack. When the box is free, it is lowered and removed from under the car. The levers must be removed in advance. The bell pins need to be replaced with new ones.

If you need to repair the UAZ Patriot gearbox, then you need to take into account that the location of the box and bell is reversed. This also applies to the location of the rods. But the development of a DIY UAZ 452 gearbox for repair is completely suitable for use.

How to turn on the front axle on a UAZ

To transfer torque to the gearbox, a cardan shaft is used, connected to a transfer gearbox that has a pair of stages. Patriot cars use two types of transfer cases: Russian mechanical or Dynamos, which has an electric drive. The latter option has been in use since 2013. In both options, you cannot do without a clutch for engaging the front axle of the UAZ.

The drive is controlled using a lever or washer located on the central tunnel. To turn on or deactivate the UAZ front axle, you need to:

1. Fully depress the clutch;
2. Move the lever to the desired position (the modes are indicated on the plastic handle). Carry out the operation at a speed of no more than 60 km/h;
3. Release the clutch: you can then drive with the axle activated. To disengage it, depress the clutch again and move the control lever to neutral.

Engaging the axle on SUVs with a Dymos gearbox is much simpler: you need to turn the washer to the desired position. The design of the transmission is such that it is not forbidden to connect the axle directly while driving. However, if a reduced speed is required, you will have to stop.

Source

everything useful is here

Removing the gearbox

We work together on the inspection ditch.

SEQUENCE OF ACTIONS Drain the oil from the transfer case and gearbox.

We remove the transfer case and install a jack under the clutch housing. Disconnect the wire ends from the reverse light switch. We recommend removing the reverse light switch so as not to damage its terminals. Unscrew the nuts and remove the bolts of the rear supports of the power unit

Using a 12mm wrench, unscrew the four bolts securing the gearshift lever support.

Remove the lever with the spring.

Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the four bolts securing the clutch cover cover lining.

Using a 19mm wrench, we unscrew the three nuts securing the gearbox (two on the right and the lower left), while the lower left nut rests against the gearbox housing and is not removed from the stud.

Use a jack to slightly lift the power unit (by the clutch housing).

Remove the support plate.

Using a 19mm wrench, unscrew the upper left nut securing the box.

Having moved the gearbox back, we finally unscrew the mounting nuts on the left side.

We remove the gearbox.

Install the gearbox in reverse order. Fill the gearbox and transfer case with oil

When talking about the modernization of the GAZ-69 car, one cannot help but talk about its engine. The M-20 engine, like any other engine, had advantages and disadvantages.

Its main advantage is its high-torque performance. Well, there were two main drawbacks: one of which was the engine life, which was extremely small and if the engine lasted 60 thousand km, then this was considered a good result; the second drawback was the insufficient engine power compared to its competitors.

Malfunctions and repairs

The first signs indicating a malfunction of the automotive system should force the car owner to carry out diagnostics. In some cases, this can be done on your own. Simple breakdowns can be repaired with your own hands. It is better to entrust more complex faults to a service center.

Signs indicating the need to repair the UAZ gearbox:

• deterioration of management;
• squeaks and extraneous noises when changing speeds;
• independent activation of transmission.

In most cases, when uncharacteristic noise is observed, the cause lies in wear or defect of the bearings and gears. Stiff gear shifting indicates a malfunction of the synchronizers.

The main reason for the problems that arise is the natural wear and tear of parts.

The need to check the transfer case is indicated by deterioration in wheel adhesion to the road surface and increased noise levels from the area where the unit is located. Damage is caused by: careless operation of vehicles, untimely maintenance, use of low-quality consumables, fuel and gear oil, lack of control over the volume of working fluids.

Another group of problems is related to the leakage of the oil mixture from the gearbox. Possible reasons:

• exceeding the maximum oil volume in the box;
• water entering the system when refueling;
• a crack on the unit cover or on the crankcase.

The UAZ high-speed gearbox consists of a large number of working elements and components. Their normal functioning and interaction ensure reliable use of vehicles. Gearbox repairs will not be required if you regularly inspect your vehicle.

Mechanism adjustment

After assembling and installing the new switching mechanism, it is necessary to adjust the rods and the entire system. The goal is achieved by changing the length of the vertical and horizontal rods. Do-it-yourself setup sequence:

1. Move the gear shift lever to the neutral position, and move the element responsible for selecting the gear all the way.
2. Move lever 1 to positions corresponding to speeds 1 and 2. While checking that the elements are not pulled up, connect and secure the selection rod.
3. Similar actions must be carried out for other gear stages.

After work, you should check that the gears are fully engaged by starting first gear and reverse. The lever must not come into contact with other parts or controls. The optimal gap size is up to 3 mm.

How to disassemble

Before repairing a 5- or 4-speed gearbox (new model), you must carefully study the device diagram, prepare material and tools. To dismantle the unit yourself you will need:

• wrenches: open-end and socket;
• screwdrivers;
• hammer;
• assembly shovel.

The large weight of the product due to contact with the dispensing system requires an assistant during operation and removal of the box.

Disassembling the gearbox occurs in the following sequence:

1. Fixing the machine above the inspection hole.
2. Removing transmission oil to reduce unit weight.
3. Removing the seats in the cabin.
4. Dismantling the speed release fork, clutch pan near the muffler, frame, speedometer shaft and cardan.
5. Disconnecting the dispensing system from the main structure, securing it to the side with a rope.
6. Removing fasteners.

After this, you can remove the body from the car. The next step is to disassemble the gearbox stages, check all elements of the mechanism for wear, and replace non-functional parts with new ones.

How to assemble

Assembly and installation of the automatic transmission is carried out in the following order:

1. Placing the box in place, tightening the bolts and other fasteners.
2. Attachment to the main structure of the transfer case.
3. Installation of the speed release fork, clutch pan near the muffler, frame, speedometer shaft and cardan. At this stage you can assemble the lever.
4. Installation of seats in the interior.
5. Filling the container with new transmission oil.

After this, you can remove the car from the inspection hole. To install a new gearbox on a UAZ and replace other parts, first carefully read the mechanism diagram.

Replacing the transfer case

When installing new components, you should use only high-quality parts that are suitable for the vehicle model. This is the key to a comfortable ride and reliable functioning of all elements of the system.

Replacing the transfer case is complicated by its connection to the gearbox, which increases the weight of the structure.

The process includes the following steps:

1. Removal and disassembly of the unit.
2. Fault diagnosis.
3. Replacement of worn elements or installation of a new transfer case.

To dismantle the device you will need:

• secure the vehicle in the inspection hole;
• lower the parking brake lever;
• move the remaining elements for selecting and changing speeds to the neutral position;
• remove the casing, handles, all connecting wire elements, covers and lining.

The new unit must be installed in the reverse order.

Timely maintenance, diagnostics of main and auxiliary components, regular replacement of worn parts, use of high-quality fuel and oil mixtures, consumables, careful operation of vehicles and following the manufacturer’s recommendations will help to extend the service life of the mechanism.

Engines installed on GAZ-69

Soon the UAZ-469B car went into production, and since Since the new car was much more dynamic and comfortable than previous models, most GAZ-69 owners began installing UAZ and Volgov engines in their cars.

However, among the adherents of more powerful engines, there were also those who were partial to the engine from the UAZ-450. Due to the fact that it had a piston with a diameter of 88 mm, the engine power reached 62 hp.

I somehow came across such a cylinder block, but pistons and rings for it were in real short supply at that time and I was unable to find them. I must say that the only time I accidentally saw such a rare engine assembled in scrap metal. After such a meeting, I became a little interested in restorers of old equipment, because they find exclusive parts somewhere.

There was another engine in the USSR that was chased by Kozlikov lovers and which was valued much higher among foresters and hunters than the Volgovsky. It was a Polish engine from a Nysa car.

In its pedigree, this engine had roots from the GAZ M-20 engine, but was modernized by the Poles while maintaining the old dimension and converted into an overhead valve. With an engine power of 70 hp, it pulled like crazy at the bottom and when driving tight, it had absolutely no competitors.

Based on the above, the real contender for me for installation on the GAZ-69 car was the Volgovsky engine from the GAZ-21. However, preparations for the operation to install another engine took time and in my case took a lot of time.

Around the same time, I came across an interesting article about the modernization of production processes and it concluded that it makes no sense to separately reconstruct one workshop in production, because this will not lead to an increase in output throughout the enterprise.

After reading this and thinking a little, it became clear to me that if in my case I installed a more powerful engine, then I would also need to install a gearbox and transmission from a UAZ. Only then will I receive maximum benefit from the planned refurbishment. To put it simply, after the conversion I will have a modern UAZ in the skin of the GAZ-69.

Tuning the GAZ M-20 engine

When I returned from the army, I tried to boost the original GAZ-69 engine and to do this I milled the cylinder head so that the valves did not rest against it.

I also pressed out the exhaust valve guides and sharpened them to accommodate the thicker valve stem from the PAZ engine. Next, I drilled the sockets and ground the valves.

They installed PAZ exhaust valves because they had a sodium filler and did not burn even with 76 gasoline. However, the problem was that finding them was extremely difficult.

After carrying out the work described above, the valves stopped burning, and the engine noticeably increased in traction and on a straight road could accelerate the car to 110 km/h. My tuned engine lasted about 15 thousand km, after which water started to flow into the sump.

An autopsy showed that the engine block from the exhaust valve to the cylinder liner had burst and could no longer be repaired. Unfortunately I no longer remember the cylinder number. This experiment forever discouraged me from boosting engines.

True, I once put a triple shaft into a cheap engine, but there were special factory connecting rods and this Zhiguli engine ran without any complaints.

Selection of spare parts

In general, I decided to abandon boosting the GAZ M-20 engine and install the Volga GAZ-21 engine on my GAZ-69. Slowly, I found a 4-speed gearbox from a UAZ, and then a transfer case from a Bukhanka. I couldn’t find the plate from the UAZ-469B, which is placed between the gearbox and the steering wheel. However, I came across the same one from Bukhanka, but it was a little narrower than the UAZ one.

Also, I found four engine mounting mounts from UAZ or GAZ-51, because... they were practically the same. I took four spare sheet metal plates and adjusted the large holes of the engine mounts to them. In a word, I assembled everything and just waited for some unit to fail.

Conversion of GAZ-69

After some time, a breakdown occurred and I did not patch Trishkin’s caftan, but pulled out the engine, gearbox and transfer case at once.

I started the re-equipment with the installation of a Volgov engine. I secured it with the rear part to the engine cross member, and welded brackets to the frame under the front part using pre-prepared plates.

In order to dock the gearbox with the RK, I had to unscrew the body and raise it by 200 mm.

Having secured the gearbox with the transfer case, I began to manufacture the rear brackets for the transfer case support, and when I secured the transfer case, I removed the rear engine mounts from the yoke.

The time had come to cut out in the body what was preventing it from being put in place, so that in the future, to remove the gearbox and gearbox, you wouldn’t have to remove it again.

When the body was installed, the intermediate axis of the clutch drive had to be shortened and welded again, because it was impossible to put it in place, because it did not fit between the frame and the flywheel housing.

Next, it was the turn of the driveshaft. I couldn’t find the original rear universal joint, so I had to solve the problem using a makeshift method. I took two cardan shafts with the condition that one of them had a normal working splined part. I measured the distance between the flanges of the bridge and the transfer case, and then cut them with this calculation, as it turned out, almost in half.

Then, he took two corners of the thirty and clamped these remains of the cardans with the corners in a vice. The corners acted as centers for me. Then, he placed two electrodes on the cardan forks and aligned the cardan shafts so that they were in the same plane.

Gearbox UAZ 469, 31512, 31514, 31519

Gearbox repair after UAZ 31512 wedge

Opening the gearbox revealed a crack that had come out of the 3rd and 4th gear clutch:

One of those fucking crackers. With a slight movement of the screwdriver, the coupling became movable and functional again. But for how long?

One of the three bastards

We move the coupling to the side and use a flat-blade screwdriver to carefully hammer it. We pick out the fragments of crackers and put them together like a puzzle to make sure that there are no other foreign bodies left in the gearbox.

While I was chopping and picking out crackers, I was turning the gearbox input shaft and involuntarily noticed a large (!) transverse play of the primary. I decided to take it off and check it out, and my surprise knew no bounds! The rollers of the rear bearing of the input shaft spilled into the gearbox housing like peas onto the floor. Although manuals for troubleshooting and repairing gearboxes assure that this should not be the case.

Bearing that ate itself

It’s good that I bought these rollers in advance and had them in stock, so I didn’t have to run headlong to the store with these rollers...

I coated the bearing seat generously with lithol and assembled the rollers in their installation location:

Here, of course, I had to sweat and swear putting the videos together. 13 videos became normal, but the 14th, last one, just didn’t want to take its place among its twins. I had to get rid of it and lay out some of the rollers in a “rose pattern” and at the same time put everything together into the shaft. After long shamanic dances with a tambourine, calls to the UAZ gods and curses from the crooked designers, the videos fell into place. Naturally, the shaft was immediately installed in its original place.

Transfer case, complete assembly of the gear unit and its installation

Loosen the nuts of the flanges and shafts and remove them. The handbrake must be checked for functionality and, if necessary, it must be replaced. Remove all covers and replace seals. Unscrew the speedometer linkage drive and the breather (it needs to be replaced). Check the bearings and replace if necessary.

Reassembling the transfer case is done in the reverse order. These steps are repeated when working with other types of this car brand (including when repairing the UAZ Hunter gearbox). Install the fastening bracket to the frame. Place the transfer case on the handbrake drum and, holding it by the gear, lower it into place through the power take-off hatch.

Before this, install the lock washer from the intermediate shaft. Tighten the bolts and nuts, put on the cover with levers and check the operation of all gears. They change the release bearing, remove the levers, drag the entire assembly under the car and hang it on a rope. Place the release bearing assembly on the box and strengthen the spring. Then the input shaft and clutch are inserted. This is done as follows:

• move the box down and up;
• turn the engine by the flywheel;
• put the knot in place;
• attach pillows.

The oiler for the input shaft splines and the fork are attached in place, and the speedometer drive, cardans, handbrake, and covers are put in place. You need to return the frame cross member to its place and secure the muffler bracket to the transfer case.

The handbrake is adjusted and adjusted, and the oil is changed. If the UAZ Hunter gearbox is being repaired, you may need not only these steps, but also adjusting the rods. They screw up the hatch on the floor and install the seats. At this point, the repair of the UAZ 452 gearbox on our own is completed.