UAZ Bukhanka starter: where is it located, how to remove, replacement


UAZ starter replacement

Removing the starter
We do part of the work in the inspection ditch.

SEQUENCING

Disconnect the battery. Having removed the insulating cap of the control wire tip,...

...using an “8” wrench, unscrew the nut securing the wire and remove it from the terminal of the traction relay winding.

Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the traction relay output nut.

Remove the ends of the two wires from the terminal.

Removing the side engine splash guard

Using a wrench or a 12mm socket, unscrew the two bolts securing the working cylinder of the clutch hydraulic drive.

We place the cylinder on the braided ground wire of the engine.

Using a 19mm wrench, unscrew the lower starter mounting nut.

Using a 19mm wrench, unscrew the top nut securing the starter. By loosening the octane corrector bolt and marking or remembering its position on the scale...

...turn it so that the octane corrector plate does not interfere with removing the starter.

Install the starter in reverse order.

How to remove

Algorithm for removing a node:

  • Disconnect the battery from the vehicle's on-board network.
  • Remove the rubber cap and unscrew the nut holding the power supply terminal on the traction relay.
  • Remove the terminal from the bolt, and then unscrew the nut holding the positive power wire of the motor windings.
  • Remove the terminal and then proceed to unscrew the connections holding the starter to the clutch housing.
  • Unscrew the bottom bolt using a spanner or socket wrench, and then remove the nut screwed onto the stud located on top of the electric motor.
  • Separate the starter from the crankcase for subsequent disassembly.

Device

The starter device includes the following parts and mechanisms:

  • a cover equipped with an intermediate ring;
  • plug made of rubber;
  • drive handle;
  • traction relay;
  • manifold cover;
  • brush;
  • collector;
  • traction relay core;
  • solenoid relay coils;
  • spring brush device;
  • retaining ring;
  • coupling bolt;
  • anchor;
  • stator;
  • freewheel with gear;
  • restrictive ring;
  • fasteners.

When the key is turned in the ignition, the electric starter relay directs voltage to a retractor-type relay, which engages the flywheel ring gear and activates the starter's rotation by supplying power from the batteries. When the ignition key is turned to another position, the relay cuts off power to the starter.

The solenoid relay has two coils. One consumes more current than the other. A coil with a large amount of current is activated only when the starter device is activated, and the second one helps to hold the core of the ignition system.

After the solenoid relay is activated, power is supplied to the starter housing from the batteries. At this moment, there is a positive potential at both terminals of the pull-in coil.

Starter (engine ZMZ-402; UMZ-417, 4213, 4216, 4218) 2.2 kW, gear “StartVOLT”

Price1*6590 RUR
Price2*6090 rub.
Price3*5840 rub.
Price4*5590 RUR
Price5*5390 RUR
Price6*3040 rub.

Online store:

Available in sufficient quantity

Quantity of goods is limited

Item is running low or reserved

We can offer tomorrow

We can offer tomorrow

Open a page in a new browser tab on any other site with a description of the product that you consider the best analogue of the current one and copy here the address of this page from the address bar of your browser.

Malfunctions and repairs

In order to properly repair the starting mechanism of the power unit, it is necessary to determine the cause of the breakdown.

The main reasons for the failure of this mechanism include:

  • slipping of the freewheel;
  • failure of the mechanism shutdown lever;
  • premature wear of the handles;
  • malfunction of the buffer spring mechanism;
  • drive ring wear;
  • damage to teeth;
  • weak tension of the fastening bolts of the gear mechanism;
  • damage to the bearing bushings and journals on the armature;
  • weak anchor fastening;
  • damage to the traction relay;
  • drive jamming on the shaft or drive frame.

Before you begin to repair the electric starter, you must install the vehicle on a special platform or inspection hole and turn off the power unit.

Do-it-yourself UAZ starter faults and repairs:

  1. Battery low. In this case, it is recommended to recharge the battery.
  2. Oxidation of wires. It is necessary to clean the tips with a toothbrush.
  3. Poor tip tension. To ensure quality contact, you need to tighten the tips.
  4. Damage to the electrical circuit. It is necessary to carry out an external inspection and eliminate the defect.
  5. The anchor device jams and does not turn the solenoid relay. In this case, the worn mechanism should be replaced.
  6. If there is an interturn short circuit, it is necessary to conduct an external inspection of the coil of the solenoid relay. If there are breaks or other defects, it is recommended to rewind the wire.
  7. If the contacts in the ignition switch are broken, they should be replaced with new ones, because they cannot be repaired.
  8. If the collector device burns out during operation of the power unit, then the entire collector must be replaced.
  9. If the brush mechanism hangs or it wears out quickly, then you need to replace the brushes, having first disassembled the entire starter mechanism.
  10. If the starter turns on, but the crankshaft does not rotate, the starter drive and buffer spring must be replaced, and sticking of the drives must also be eliminated.
  11. If the gears do not mesh with the flywheel, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the buffer spring, remove nicks, and adjust the travel of the gears.

Reasons for failure

Most often, the starter on a UAZ Bukhanka is damaged due to the following:

Malfunctions can be identified by various signs. As a rule, the power circuit always breaks, cracking and grinding sounds, the smell of burnt wires, weak or absent cranking appear.

Brush wear

Faulty brushes immediately reveal themselves:

The coals are checked for residual length. It is also extremely important to inspect the brush holder and springs.

Bushing wear

Typical signs of faulty bushings:

The bushings are inspected only with the starter disassembled. It is necessary to measure the play and check their alignment with the shaft.

Winding combustion

Quite a frequent winter breakdown, when the starting device literally burns out in a few minutes. The culprit is a person who, due to his inexperience, fails to start the engine. It is the combination of inexperience, cold weather and a discharged battery, as well as unnecessary driver persistence that often leads to burnt-out coils.

This also occurs due to an interturn short circuit or breakdowns of another property. Breaks often occur in the armature and stator windings. To fully check the operation of the coils, you will have to disassemble the device and test it with a multimeter.

Bendix slipping

Bendix is ​​technically more correctly called an inclusion drive. It consists of a lever, a gear with teeth, an overrunning clutch, a spring, and a disc washer. During the operation of the starter, a heavy load is placed on it, because it is it that engages with the flywheel and transmits rotation to it. When the car engine starts, the bendix retracts.


Slipping is one of its most common malfunctions. Characteristic symptoms: the starter does not turn on when starting, rotates slowly, makes noise. Usually the bendix is ​​not repaired, but replaced entirely. However, in some cases, for example, when this part of the starter becomes dirty, this restoration method helps:

This usually helps to thoroughly clean the mechanism. If not, then you have to disassemble the starter and replace the clutch.

Starter UAZ Bukhanka

A car starter is a complex electromechanical device, the functional significance of which is to turn the engine flywheel for successful starting.

The starter on the UAZ “Bukhanka”, due to its structural architecture, often fails, which often confuses the car’s owners, but in reality, repairing and servicing the device will not present any particular difficulties.

Due to the intensity of operation, the starter may fail depending on many reasons - troubleshooting is the most time-consuming procedure in repairing a device. However, if you know what to look for, the time spent will be significantly reduced - the most common causes of starter failure on the UAZ Bukhanka are as follows:

  • Open circuit in the power supply - first of all, you need to check the power relay. To do this, you need to directly connect the starter to the car's battery - just short terminal 50 and the positive wire of the battery with a metal object. If the problem is just the relay, the starter will start the engine.

UAZ starter circuit

Starter 42.3708: 1 – cover on the drive side; 2 – drive ring; 3 – thrust ring; 4 – locking ring; 5 – drive; 6 – anchor; 7 – body; 8 – brush; 9 – traverse; 10 – thrust washer; 11 – adjusting washer; 12 – lock washer; 13 – cover from the collector side; 14 – contact bolt; 15 – contact plate; 16 – relay cover; 17 – return spring; 18 – rod; 19 – relay anchor; 20 – compensating spring; 21 – buffer spring; 22 – gear; 23 – M5x14 screw; 24 – tie rod nut; 25 – M6x16 screw; 26 – M8 nut; 27 – input of relay coils; 28 – M6x30 screw; 29 – lever; 30 – M8 nut; 31 – lever axis

Connection diagram to the starter circuit

Starter activation diagram: 1 – ground switch; 2 – rechargeable battery; 3 – additional starter relay; 4 – ignition switch (lock); 5 – voltmeter; 6 – contact disk; 7 – retractor winding; 8 – holding winding; 9 – starter traction relay; 10 – starter

Starter 42.3708 or 4211.3708–01 with an electromagnetic traction relay and a lever drive with a roller freewheel clutch is installed on the left side of the engine (along the direction of the vehicle). The starter connection diagram is shown in the second picture

Perform periodic maintenance work on the starter:

1. Check the condition of the clamps, making sure they are not dirty or loosened. 2. Remove the protective casing and inspect the collector, correct any faults if necessary. 3. Open cover 13 (see first picture) from the collector side, inspect and, if necessary, clean the contact surfaces, then blow with compressed air. 4. If necessary, tighten the starter housing pinch bolts. 5. Check the fastening of the starter to the clutch housing. 6. When operating the vehicle in difficult conditions, remove the starter to clean the drive and freewheel from dirt.

Specifications

The direction of rotation is right.

Rated voltage 12 V.

Power when powered by a 60 Ah battery 1.2 kW 1.65 hp

  • current consumption, no more than 75 A.
  • voltage at the starter terminals, no more than 12 V.
  • Rotor speed, not less than 5000 min -1.

Full braking at 20°C:

  • braking torque, 1.6±0.16 kgf•m
  • current consumption, no more than 520 A.
  • voltage at the starter terminals, no more than 7 V.

Every 32,000 km of the vehicle, perform the following maintenance work on the starter:

1. Remove the starter from the engine. 2. Check the condition of the commutator and brushes. Make sure that the brushes do not jam in the brush holders. If the brush height is less than 6 mm, replace them. 3. Disassemble the starter. Replace worn parts. 4. When assembling, lubricate the bearings and shaft journals with engine oil. Lightly lubricate the splined part of the shaft, drive outlet bushings, pins and lever axis with Litol-24 grease.

When I was looking for why the starter might not work, I found this picture from the instruction manual for UAZ vehicles.

Dismantling

In Bukhanka, the starter is located under the engine on the driver's side. For convenience, the machine is raised and the device is removed from under the bottom. The process will require the following tools and equipment:

  • stationary lift, pit or jack;
  • a set of keys of various types;
  • ratchet with heads and extensions;
  • pliers or pliers;
  • a clean piece of rag.


The starter must be removed after de-energizing the system, dismantling the crankcase protective lining and the plastic dust cover. All wires that are routed to the starter must be unscrewed. The electric motor on the UAZ-452 is usually attached to the combustion engine compartment with two bolts - top and bottom.

Video: replacing the UAZ starter

Seriy PykhachevIs the classic starter suitable for Bukhanka?
Agent 00787what classic did you mean?
Seriy PykhachevWell, all sorts of Lada pennies, etc.
StarThe Zhiguli starter will not work on the UAZ. Have you ever compared the Zhiguli starter with the UAZ? they are completely different, the UAZ one is fastened with two studs, and the Zhigulevsky one is secured with three bolts., and the Zhigulevsky Bendix is ​​much smaller))) just like that. do you have a problem with the starter?
Tsukerman MishaSo lately it’s been hard to start, like it takes over and that’s it... almost doesn’t turn over. Akum lands in seconds. And now it just clicks and that’s it.
Sahakyan Kurendrag this device in for repair
RuperEffectYes, eternal nonsense)) snow, dust, dirt, water. remove the starter, clean it thoroughly and clean the retractor with a knife and everything will be fine; I always do this myself)
Andrey ShumeikoI propose to expand the topic: An engine from a classic on a UAZ. So, the power is about 100 hp, it is light in weight and size, and the lack of torque can be compensated for by a large gear ratio in the transfer case and GP.
Kilmukhametov-RuslanWell, fuck the VAZ engine. I have a Gazoaskaya v8 ZMZ 511 worth nothing better, I haven’t driven it)))
Sokol VerkhniyThe Zhiguli engine is certainly an interesting thing. but it seems to me that the torque at the top is its main disadvantage.
Black Dayand with a starter. It seems to me that the game is absolutely not worth the candle; the Zhiguli starter fits the stator and brushes, tested on myself. The truth is, it didn’t save me and the starter died, although the problems were exactly the same. and all this was due to worn rotor bushings. especially average. As a result, the rotor shaft broke in the bendix area
Rustem-88in the end, the rotor shaft broke in the bendix area, it was also such garbage
Kilmukhametov-Ruslanfrom the Volga is the best option and turns well in winter)))) the handle is even better everything
Marat ShaidullovThe starter from Mosvich 412 is suitable. Only the front cover needs to be replaced with your own so that the retractor does not touch the frame. Fortunately, Muscovites have not yet run out of scrap metal collection points. from a Muscovite and the starter is much better and lasts longer
EfimokAnd what kind of starter from a foreign car is suitable? I heard they install it and it turns more powerfully and is smaller in size - In general, it doesn’t take on a lot of current?????
Rating
( 2 ratings, average 4.5 out of 5 )
Did you like the article? Share with friends:
For any suggestions regarding the site: [email protected]
Для любых предложений по сайту: [email protected]